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Guys, I finally was able to clean all the garbage from the steering box, and I'm 100% confident that leak is coming from this place - see picture.
Did anyone here worked on that spot recently? Looks like that top cover has those 4 main bolts, then one in the middle and nipple and all should pop right off...right?
Also, I see "steering box seal kits" for my 1997 Discovery in multiple places, but all seals on their pics are in circular shape, but that "cover" in my picture is shaped more like a square...is there like a different gasket for that?
I've had several different kinds of steering boxes apart over the yrs to rebuild, manual and power. Basically you'll need to remove that nut and then the retaining bolts to get the cover off. Then you can put a new seal under it. You can just get some general universal (flat) gasket material and make your own gasket. I would get the thin stuff. Heck, even a paper bag would probably work. Or a guy could use a VERY thin amt of RTV.
Here's the things you need to pay attention to:
1) Top screw: Mark the top screw with a paint pen or a light chisel mark that faces the top near the input shaft, so you know where it goes. Essentially, you want to remember it's location and when you're finished, maybe give it another 1/8 turn more (just to acomodate wear). So ....Unscrew the top nut and then as you need BUT *Hold* the screw in the same spot as you remove the nut. Then unscrew the adjuster whatever you need...maybe one turn. Remember how many turns. Then you can get it 'right' after you replace the seal.
2) The BEST way to re-do a power steering box/gear is to remove from vehicle and place on bench/vise. That's really the only good way to properly adjust a steering box. But that's a lot of work. Work you probably don't need to do to seal your steering box. The method for adjusting a steering box is to adjust the main shaft PRELOAD first so there is a specified resistance on the shaft. THEN adjust the top adjuster nut. But for your purposes, you may not want to or even need to remove the box. Just remember where the top adjuster nut is now and return it to it's location. But I'd give it a slight extra turn as I said above. BUT, if you wanted to rebuild it or re-do the preload to factory, you almost need to do it out of the vehicle. But if your steering is sloppy and you know it's the box/gear and plan to rebuild anyway, then remove. But if it's just the leak, try to do on-car.
But yeah, you can do it in the vehicle as i stated above. Good luck!!
I would personally get the D1 to operating temperature, then use a turkey baster and remove pretty much all the Dextron ATF from the PS Reservoir and add the entire bottle of Lucas PS Additive. Then drive it around for around a week and the seep should stop. That stuff actually does a VERY good job of sealing up the RRC/D1/D90/D110/D130 PS box.
I have used the Lucas PS Stop Leak. It did cause some extra noise when it is very cold, but steering was good.
Here are a couple points not yet mentioned: The nipple is for bleeding air (just like for brakes), so it does not need to be removed. The center lash adjuster screws into the lid as I recall, so if you hold the screw still, the lid can be spun off (after 4 corners are free). The lash adjuster is a "by feel" adjustment, so best done on the workbench after everything has been put back together. I recall a square paper-type gasket for the lid, but it has been long enough ago that I am uncertain. I did not mess with the solid nylon seal for the piston, because I wasn't sure how to stretch the new one on. A recent Forum poster recounted problems with that seal after stretching the new one. Leaking from the input shaft is also common, so if you disconnect that shaft, it is not much more work to remove the whole box from the truck (it is a heavy bugger though).
I've had several different kinds of steering boxes apart over the yrs to rebuild, manual and power. Basically you'll need to remove that nut and then the retaining bolts to get the cover off. Then you can put a new seal under it. You can just get some general universal (flat) gasket material and make your own gasket. I would get the thin stuff. Heck, even a paper bag would probably work. Or a guy could use a VERY thin amt of RTV.
Here's the things you need to pay attention to:
1) Top screw: Mark the top screw with a paint pen or a light chisel mark that faces the top near the input shaft, so you know where it goes. Essentially, you want to remember it's location and when you're finished, maybe give it another 1/8 turn more (just to acomodate wear). So ....Unscrew the top nut and then as you need BUT *Hold* the screw in the same spot as you remove the nut. Then unscrew the adjuster whatever you need...maybe one turn. Remember how many turns. Then you can get it 'right' after you replace the seal.
2) The BEST way to re-do a power steering box/gear is to remove from vehicle and place on bench/vise. That's really the only good way to properly adjust a steering box. But that's a lot of work. Work you probably don't need to do to seal your steering box. The method for adjusting a steering box is to adjust the main shaft PRELOAD first so there is a specified resistance on the shaft. THEN adjust the top adjuster nut. But for your purposes, you may not want to or even need to remove the box. Just remember where the top adjuster nut is now and return it to it's location. But I'd give it a slight extra turn as I said above. BUT, if you wanted to rebuild it or re-do the preload to factory, you almost need to do it out of the vehicle. But if your steering is sloppy and you know it's the box/gear and plan to rebuild anyway, then remove. But if it's just the leak, try to do on-car.
But yeah, you can do it in the vehicle as i stated above. Good luck!!
Thank you Mark. This is awesome, thank you very much!!!!
I have used the Lucas PS Stop Leak. It did cause some extra noise when it is very cold, but steering was good.
Yeah it doesn't get what I'd call extremely cold down in the part of TX I'm from lol, but I what I've done is slap an entire bottle into the system give it a month worth of use so the seals and the system get treated, and then I've simply refilled the system back up with normal DEX ATF fluid after the seep or leak stopped.
It seems no matter what you do now days there is no such thing as a quiet PS pump made today. From D1 to D2 PS pumps new/refurb they all make noise vs the original ZF PS pumps. I've tried $400.00/200.00 all the way down to 60.00 and they all make some slight noise.
I endup sealing top lid off with hard cardboard like home made gasket. I put smudge of silicon sealant gasket on it. Drove D1 around whole day yesterday and so far everything is holding up! One day at the time! Ha!
Thank you all for pointers.
What @Mark G posted was spot on!
I developed a leak as well - my local Landy expert - recommends keeping original equipment box and resealing - seal kit is less than $100 and time to remove - reseal - install is 2 hours so about $300 - seems like a better way to go than buying a Chinese made or re mfg. box for $100-$200 - they warranty it for 1 year
Steering Box leak
