Stock switch wiring advice
I want to use the Volume Up/Down buttons for my Winch In/Out controls inside the cab.

I'm having issues determining the pin-out for the stock switches though.
I thought one would be power in, one power out to the radio, one power in for the illumination, and a ground. That's not what I'm finding.
Here's what I have for pin-out:
1-BRWN/YLW - 4.18v with key on
2-RED- 8.84v with headlights on
4-BLK- no voltage
5-BLK- no voltage
So I need a little help here. Here's the wiring diagram from the RAVE.

I want to have 12V coming in and 12V going out to the winch solenoid.
Any help on what pins I need to use or what the heck is with that diagram????
I hate electrical, FYI!!

I'm having issues determining the pin-out for the stock switches though.
I thought one would be power in, one power out to the radio, one power in for the illumination, and a ground. That's not what I'm finding.
Here's what I have for pin-out:
1-BRWN/YLW - 4.18v with key on
2-RED- 8.84v with headlights on
4-BLK- no voltage
5-BLK- no voltage
So I need a little help here. Here's the wiring diagram from the RAVE.

I want to have 12V coming in and 12V going out to the winch solenoid.
Any help on what pins I need to use or what the heck is with that diagram????
I hate electrical, FYI!!
Pin 1 NY
Pin 1 U
Whatever color those are. They are what you want and that's an awesome idea but they complete a ground circuit, or short the radio to ground, to use you need to cut pin 1 to run out to the winch and pin 4 to attach to 12 volt
P2 is power in for lights RN
Pins 4-5 are grounds guessing B. Is black
Where is 3?
Not sure it will work but worth a try since it is just turning on the solonoid not carrying current
Pin 1 U
Whatever color those are. They are what you want and that's an awesome idea but they complete a ground circuit, or short the radio to ground, to use you need to cut pin 1 to run out to the winch and pin 4 to attach to 12 volt
P2 is power in for lights RN
Pins 4-5 are grounds guessing B. Is black
Where is 3?
Not sure it will work but worth a try since it is just turning on the solonoid not carrying current
Last edited by TOM R; Jan 13, 2014 at 05:42 PM.
What winch and do you have a control box for inside the cab or remote outside the truck?
This is what you want/have currently.
NU = Brown/Yellow at pin 1 +12V (up) winch line in tied to winch in-cab control.
U = Blue at pin 1 +12V (down) winch line out tied to winch in-cab control.
RN = Red/Brown at pin 2 would leave as they are your switch backlighting.
B = Black at pin 5 are grounds for switch backlighting.
B = Black at pin 4 on both up/down are switch grounds that you'd hook up to the winch's in cab remote.
This is what you want/have currently.
NU = Brown/Yellow at pin 1 +12V (up) winch line in tied to winch in-cab control.
U = Blue at pin 1 +12V (down) winch line out tied to winch in-cab control.
RN = Red/Brown at pin 2 would leave as they are your switch backlighting.
B = Black at pin 5 are grounds for switch backlighting.
B = Black at pin 4 on both up/down are switch grounds that you'd hook up to the winch's in cab remote.
Last edited by ihscouts; Jan 13, 2014 at 06:28 PM.
I have the Viking GS-9 winch. The Albright solenoid is remotely mounted behind the grill. The winch remote plug is remotely mounted on the grill just above my Hella light.

There's no in-cab control for the winch. That's what the Volume Up/Down buttons are going to be for. The 12v out from the switches will go back to the solenoid.

There's no in-cab control for the winch. That's what the Volume Up/Down buttons are going to be for. The 12v out from the switches will go back to the solenoid.
1 & 4 on each switch will give you a set of normally open contacts. However, those switches are signal level only and are meant to ground a very low current signal pin going into the radio microprocessor to signal to the radio micro that the volume was adjusted by a click, and then the adjustment is made via software. They are probably not meant to carry any current whatsoever, I would recommend figuring out how much current your solenoids will be drawing by measuring the resistance and I=V/R and if it's more than a few milliamps, install interposing relays. Some of those solenoids can suck down a fair amount of current when they engage.
Question though. Why does the winch controller not need relays? Bigger wiring, higher rated switch??
The controller is only to turn on the solenoid, that carries all the current, the solenoid is just a big *** heavy duty relay
Volume switches are not made for current but I say worth a shot worst happens you burn the switch up or like scouts says wire relay inline
Volume switches are not made for current but I say worth a shot worst happens you burn the switch up or like scouts says wire relay inline


