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Subwoofer mod!!

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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Rover Chris
I used to say this to people at least once a day when I worked at a big box store, "if you are just going to change one component of an equation you are setting your self up for trouble"(speaking of course about upgrading just a factory head unit or just a factory set of speakers to aftermarket). Your average factory audio system is 28-32 watts MAX power, yes total as in 7 or 8 watts per channel RMS (our systems fortunately are about 2X that with the separate amp) and you want to put in a speaker system that is rated at 200 total watts or more RMS? or power the 28-32 watt speaker system with a new head unit that puts out 60 watts RMS or more total power? sure it will sound great for a while but don't expect it to last too long. if you want a factory replacement you need to find a factory replacement, auto parts stores often carry them in single speaker applications for about $10-$20, unfortunately factory subs are harder to come by so you have to be a little more creative! If you want to upgrade you really should upgrade both the speaker and the amplifier/head unit together (and of course match the ratings up).
Good advice - totally agree.

I bought all my components at once from Amazon. It's fun to re-vamp an old crusty system. I'm no audiophile but I love music and I couldn't stand the stock stuff any longer. I had a frozen voicecoil in one of the subs, the other was torn all the way round, and the right side of the stock amp for the door speakers was toast. It was tragic!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:21 AM
  #12  
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Here's my Mod: (the paint matches really well it just looks off because of the camera flash, and it sounds amazing!)
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:27 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Rover Chris
Here's my Mod: (the paint matches really well it just looks off because of the camera flash, and it sounds amazing!)
Nice! What's powering it?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #14  
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I have an old school early 90's (94 I think) Fosgate 2 channel amp running at 2 ohms mono under the passenger seat! the amp is rated at about 250 watt RMS at 4 ohms so I am pulling very close to around 300-350 RMS at 2 ohms. and the sub is rated at 300 RMS.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #15  
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chris with all this said about ohms and watts. can you reccomend some speakers for my D2? i need the lows and mids in the front doors replaced. i dont care to get crazy loud i just need something that is not blown. the PO had rigged some kind of amp and extra sub enclosure into the system and took out nearly every speaker. i ripped everything out and only have 2 seats in the front so im only looking to replace the lows and mids in the door, the highs appear to be ok.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Rover Chris
I have an old school early 90's (94 I think) Fosgate 2 channel amp running at 2 ohms mono under the passenger seat! the amp is rated at about 250 watt RMS at 4 ohms so I am pulling very close to around 300-350 RMS at 2 ohms. and the sub is rated at 300 RMS.
Sounds like a good combo. I had 2 RF Punch Power 12's each powered by a Punch 200 in my old car a few years ago. It was devastating loud.
 

Last edited by jdhuegel1; Feb 7, 2011 at 10:01 AM. Reason: missed quote!
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 10:18 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hilltoppersx
chris with all this said about ohms and watts. can you reccomend some speakers for my D2? i need the lows and mids in the front doors replaced. i dont care to get crazy loud i just need something that is not blown. the PO had rigged some kind of amp and extra sub enclosure into the system and took out nearly every speaker. i ripped everything out and only have 2 seats in the front so im only looking to replace the lows and mids in the door, the highs appear to be ok.

Ed, I am sure I could find a couple suggestions but I am not familiar with the HK D2 audio specs so I need some info first.

1. what is powering them? if it is the stock amp I would need to know what kind of power it provides. (I can figure this out by knowing what size fuse it has)

2. I would need to know the diameter size of the speakers. ( I think its 6.5", 4" and 1" tweeter if I remember correct)

3. I would need to know if there is any depth restriction, like does the door glass sit right behind the magnet? there is nothing worse than getting halfway through installing a speaker only to hit the door glass with the magnet, or worse finishing the install and hitting the magnet when you put the window down! of course I always install the door speakers with the window down for that very reason.

4. and lastly what price range are you looking at I know you said nothing loud but do you want cheap factory replacements or factory upgrades (a little more money, and of course my suggestion of a new amplifier or radio) If you are looking into upgrading I would only swap the big speakers with coaxials and rewire them to a new radio.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 10:43 AM
  #18  
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1. what is powering them? if it is the stock amp I would need to know what kind of power it provides. (I can figure this out by knowing what size fuse it has)

Yes Stock amp. I will have to check the RAVE or my truck tonight and get back to you.

2. I would need to know the diameter size of the speakers. ( I think its 6.5", 4" and 1" tweeter if I remember correct)

Yes that is the correct width of the speakers.

3. I would need to know if there is any depth restriction, like does the door glass sit right behind the magnet? there is nothing worse than getting halfway through installing a speaker only to hit the door glass with the magnet, or worse finishing the install and hitting the magnet when you put the window down! of course I always install the door speakers with the window down for that very reason.

Yes there are depth restrictions from what I understand some people have built extension enclosures so the bigger magnets could fit. Again I will have to pull the speaker to find out the depth of the speaker that is in there now. I don't think this is available in RAVE

4. and lastly what price range are you looking at I know you said nothing loud but do you want cheap factory replacements or factory upgrades (a little more money, and of course my suggestion of a new amplifier or radio) If you are looking into upgrading I would only swap the big speakers with coaxials and rewire them to a new radio

Probably should have started a new thread. I'm just looking for factory replacements. Im sure others might be interested in what you have to say about upgrades. I mainly use my rig for trails so i just need some tunes to get me to the woods.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #19  
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OK I am going to wager a guess here that the stock HK amp in the D2 is 15 amps max or 200 peak, so realistically you would be looking at 80-100 watts total power or 20-25 watts X 4. Lets say to be comfortable your replacement speaker would ideally want roughly between 5 and 30 watts RMS. keep in mind by running 3 speakers per channel the amp is working harder but this HK amp is designed to do just that so this isn't too much of an issue for you. now the 6.5" speaker depth can easily be corrected with a speaker spacer as they are common in the 6.5 and 5.25 sizes. however the 4" speaker may be a concern because that size speaker in that power handling range are commonly found in shielded applications (like computer or TV) and the magnet shield can add quite a bit of depth. I would like to think they make some 4" spacers so you should be fine (or if you have a jigsaw, buy a piece of MDF, a can of spray paint and make your own!). just google 4" and 6.5" speaker spacers and see what comes up.

for the drivers, if my power estimate is right I would suggest something like:
6.5" - http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-1235-/55-1235

4" - http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-3853-/55-3853

or for the 4" this would do good - http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...03-1D-/60-9240
 
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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 11:55 AM
  #20  
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great thanks!
 
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