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Sway bar disconnects or just no sway bars???

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  #21  
Old 04-20-2012, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by discowhite1
if you have hd springs and shock absorber, you no need the sway bars..just take out and sell for scrap metal.... in 1970 until 1882 range rover work unless sway bars. why you need now>? or you wanna run in the hight way?
Huh?

Well, I have a fairly new HD spring/shock setup and I recently replaced my sway bar bushings. After replacement, the ride was noticeably firmer and corner handling was much better. If you drive on-road most of the time, I wouldn't think removing sway bars is a good idea.

A quick disconnect might be fine for occasionally going off road, but will it really make that much of a difference?

Just my 2 cents.
 
  #22  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by LeakyDisco
Huh?

Well, I have a fairly new HD spring/shock setup and I recently replaced my sway bar bushings. After replacement, the ride was noticeably firmer and corner handling was much better. If you drive on-road most of the time, I wouldn't think removing sway bars is a good idea.

A quick disconnect might be fine for occasionally going off road, but will it really make that much of a difference?

Just my 2 cents.
It makes a lot of difference off road if you also have a bigger springs, but if you are running stock ones, I don't think disconnecting the sway bars will add any travel. I have the QD's on the front and when I compare it connected and disconnected when either off road or on the index ramp, there is a lot more travel. This reduces body roll over extremely uneven terrain, increases the number of tires contacting the ground for better traction, and makes the ride a lot less jarring to your spine. I have the CDL and front and rear ARB Air Lockers, so traction isn't as MUCH of a factor for me if a wheel is in the air, but the more pulling wheels the better and if there is loose soil, mud, or gravel involved on top of the terrain being uneven, it all helps. I never "power" through an obstacle if I don't have to, because you risk breaking something. So, when crawling, you need more traction than when you use momentum. I am hoping that a QD solution in the rear will add to the advantages I gained by doing the front.
 
  #23  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 4x4xfar
It makes a lot of difference off road if you also have a bigger springs, but if you are running stock ones, I don't think disconnecting the sway bars will add any travel. I have the QD's on the front and when I compare it connected and disconnected when either off road or on the index ramp, there is a lot more travel. This reduces body roll over extremely uneven terrain, increases the number of tires contacting the ground for better traction, and makes the ride a lot less jarring to your spine. I have the CDL and front and rear ARB Air Lockers, so traction isn't as MUCH of a factor for me if a wheel is in the air, but the more pulling wheels the better and if there is loose soil, mud, or gravel involved on top of the terrain being uneven, it all helps. I never "power" through an obstacle if I don't have to, because you risk breaking something. So, when crawling, you need more traction than when you use momentum. I am hoping that a QD solution in the rear will add to the advantages I gained by doing the front.

You will gain a lot more out of the rear as the sway bar limits how the a-rm "tranglulated" 3-link works - unlike the front where the radius arms axle end bushings controls how much the axle can move..


quick disconnect - discovery series II Good info on before and after way bars
 
  #24  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by fishEH
Doesn't make any difference. Go ahead and build yourself a set of disconnects. You can get the bushing from Rovahfarm.com for $.75 each. The rest you can get from any hardware store. Some thin steel tube(also from the hardware store) works well for the sleeve for the clevis pin.
Have you seen any DIY instructions online for making a set for the rear?
 
  #25  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:47 AM
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I have an OME heavy duty and I just removed both of my swaybars. Been like that for about 7 months now and it drives fine for me except my steering is sloppy due to needing to correction my front shaft angle for camber.
 
  #26  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 4x4xfar
Have you seen any DIY instructions online for making a set for the rear?
I believe it's the same as the other ones he posted up
 
  #27  
Old 04-20-2012, 01:07 PM
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couple years i not used anymore sway bars... just put a new and strong steering shock.
 
  #28  
Old 04-23-2012, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jake1996d1
what shocks?
ome hd
 
  #29  
Old 04-23-2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake1996D1
I believe it's the same as the other ones he posted up
where?
 
  #30  
Old 04-23-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4xfar
I asked this in an older thread before I saw this newer one...

Who sells rear sway bar QD's for D2's?
I have the SlickRock QD's in the front.
I think this is the problem. You apparently have a D2 and are reading a thread about quick disconnects in the D1 section. D1 and D2 are totally different in the sway bar area.
 


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