Talk about an attitude.

 

Made some good "head" way last night haha, Got the rocker covers off removed the rocker arms and push rods, now all I need to do is get the steering fluid pump off and the alternator arm off to start removing the head bolts. Haven't really run into too many problems other than time to work on the car... Had to go out and buy a 5/16th 12 point socket last night to get the rocker covers off. The damn things weren't even tightened down!
Valley pan was stuck to the bottom of the intake manifold, quite a PITA to get it off. Going to get the heads off tonight and bring them into the machine shop tomorrow morning for cleaning, and valve job. The older disco's also have an old style valve, probably going to get new valves for it as well. Will update with pictures and a full write up when I'm done!

 

I would wait to take the heads in until you've thoughrouly inspected the block to ensure there is no damage. It would really suck to do the heads only to find the block is scrap. At least clean the thing and inspect the pistons and cylinder walls/sleeves.

 

That's a good idea Chris-Bob, thanks for the advice. Anything else i should check out while i've got the heart exposed?

BA is doing a sale on water pumps, don't know if it is worth replacing the one that i've got now. No problems with it so far but other manufacturors recommend replacing water pumps. Timing belt? Serpentine belt?
I'm definitely replacing the distributor rotor and cap, plugs and wires already.

 

You always replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt because the water pump is driven by the timing belt and if you replace the belt and then the water pump goes out your pulling the whole front off of the engine again.
But we dont have timing belts, I would not worry about the water pump right now unless it gives you piece of mind.

 

Sounds good Spike, thank you for the feedback. I'll leave the water pump as is then.
Sprayed the valley pan down real nice last night it's looking so fresh compared to before! Broke my first socket last night getting one of the head bolts loose! Atleast it wasn't a head bolt (knock on wood). Advance auto parts sockets are to blame for that one.
One question, do you guys recommend those locking plates for the exhaust manifold bolts? They were such a pain to remove but I just don't see them being necessary. Here's the link to the part on BA: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERC7321.cfm
Those tabs fold down around the exhaust manifold bolts that go into the block.

 

I don't reuse the locking tabs, but I don't reuse the factory header either.... As long as you torque them, heat them up torgue them again you should be fine. I also put some manifold gasket stuff on the bolts The high temp stuff made for manifolds... works like a charm.

If your doing the heads, you might as well to the valley pan at the same time. It's and extremely common failure and easy to do since you at it anyways. If you don't do it now, you will have to before long.

I've done mine, I wish I had just gone ahead and done my heads at the same time since they are leaking a little... But, now I have something to look forward to in the near future...

 

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And for the grumpy posters :



OP, sounds like you are doing just fine. Good Luck.

 

Thank you my man,
Nice gif haha, pic below of the broken socket, bought an impact 5/8ths socket today and got both heads right off after a bit of work. Now to getting the rest of the stuff of the front of the engine which is kind of a pain and cleaning the block up before I put it back together.

 

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Is the '94 different from later models?