This is the second time I've done this job on a Land Rover but the first time doing it as extensively.

I ran into a snag. After replacing the upper bushing and lower bearing/race it seems I have a sizable gap on my upper swivel pin...I dont know if this is the norm or not....looks like I'd have to use 6-7 shims at least to fill in the gap.

I've double and triple checked to be sure both the bearing and the bushing are properly seated in the swivel ball. Im a bit stumped..



Here you can see I have washer 1 then thrust bearing then washer 2. I can verify the swivel pin is in fact seated all the way down on the washer.

 

If any one cares I swapped out the lower bearing and race with the old one and it seated correctly. I suspect the new part was slightly off size and it had the bearing sit to far toward the housing. Meaning the race was thinner or bearing was shorter. I couldn't tell by side by side comparison but I swapped it back and forth twice and both times the new parts made it have a gap. With the old parts the pin sat flush.

 

where did you buy the bearing that didnt fit ?

 

Rovah Farm

 

You need to buy a cheap dial caliper for your tool box.......then you can "see" the differences.

Did you get the upper kit, individual parts, what? Post a list using correct part names. Then I can work with what and why and not play guessing games.

I've had many discussions on shims (death wobble). Some Rovers came with one or two some came with many from factory. (Thanks to Tom and PT) So 6 or 7 isn't something to worry about albeit I agree allot of em. So don't let it spook you.

So moving along......did you get new Railco "housings" and bushes and how are you going to set your torque/preload value? Don't use the fish scale method with ABS pins.

 

Yea. New Railco housings and bushings. New abs pin seals. New lower bearings and bushings. New swivel and axle seals/gaskets. New inner and outer hub bearings. New Cv half shafts. Will have new pads and rotors also when I'm done.

Yes I had planned on the fish scale method as I've read about on here and elsewhere. Something better I dont know about?

 

Fish scale method is used for non-ABS top swivel pin (solid). To do the ABS (hollow) top swivel pin equipped you take a torque reading stop to stop without swivel oil seal and stub. Look up special tool LRT-57-024. Pretty basic, not hard to make and works with 3/8" drive wrench and extension. Page 512 in the Workshop Manual.

You'll need the shim kits Trevor sells to fill the gap between pin and hub.

 

Why didn't you also replace FTC2065, the upper thrust bearing? That's the biggest problem item that wears and causes loose swivels.

 

I did. Washers too. Forgot to mention that in the list. Also have two shim kits just in case. I basically replaced any wear parts I could.

 

So what happens if you try to set your ABS swivel load with a fish scale? I mean can't I just make sure the swivel pulls at approx 15lbs?