Swivels - to grease, or not to grease
#1
Swivels - to grease, or not to grease
Alright all, one of my swivel ***** is in need of replacement, and my 98 D1 has the fill-only, no-drain-or-level type housings. I have to take the car on a road trip this weekend - a few hundred miles, and upon jacking each wheel off the ground this evening I discovered my front passenger wheel has some play - needs bearings. I’ve been meaning to do this for a while, but haven’t gotten around to it. That swivel seal has been leaking for at least six months, and as they’re the fill-only type, I have no way to tell how much grease is actually still left in the thing. I have the one-shots. I could dump one into the fill plug just to put something in, or I could do nothing, or I’m open to suggestions. Have to take the car Saturday morning, so I only have tomorrow evening after work. Now accepting opinions.
#2
To find out your fill level, use a zip tie or wire hanger as a 'dip stick'.
Based on the level, fill as needed with the one-shot.
If you fill it the worst that can happen is that you used up some grease. If you don't fill it you can wind up damaging your CV joint. Grease is cheaper than CV joints.
Based on the level, fill as needed with the one-shot.
If you fill it the worst that can happen is that you used up some grease. If you don't fill it you can wind up damaging your CV joint. Grease is cheaper than CV joints.
#3
To find out your fill level, use a zip tie or wire hanger as a 'dip stick'.
Based on the level, fill as needed with the one-shot.
If you fill it the worst that can happen is that you used up some grease. If you don't fill it you can wind up damaging your CV joint. Grease is cheaper than CV joints.
Based on the level, fill as needed with the one-shot.
If you fill it the worst that can happen is that you used up some grease. If you don't fill it you can wind up damaging your CV joint. Grease is cheaper than CV joints.
#4
You can fill it temporarily with gear oil. Gear oil used to be specified, but the grease leaked less. If it needs topping off, I suggest gear oil or a generic tube of CV grease from any auto store so you don't have to use your one-shot until you're ready. Then when you have time, disassemble it, clean the old lubricant out, replace the bearings, and fill with your one-shots.
Estimate the fill level based on what you see in the one-shot tube. There should be enough lubricant that the bottom of the rzeppa joint is bathed in it. It doesn't need to be filled to the top. You can also look at a picture of the old ones with level-plugs. I think the spec was .75 pints, but if there's some in there already, you just have to estimate.
Estimate the fill level based on what you see in the one-shot tube. There should be enough lubricant that the bottom of the rzeppa joint is bathed in it. It doesn't need to be filled to the top. You can also look at a picture of the old ones with level-plugs. I think the spec was .75 pints, but if there's some in there already, you just have to estimate.
Last edited by nathanb; 09-21-2018 at 02:09 PM.
#5
Any idea where the fill level is actually supposed to be? I've heard some numbers on how much oil or grease is supposed to be in these things, ounce-wise, but nothing about where the level should fall. I have also heard from some people about some negative effects of over-filling, stressing seals and whatnot...
i don't think you could fit enough grease into the swivel ball to over fill it were it would cause harm.
i would grease it and drive it.
#7
#8
#9
If it's not leaking externally, the swivel ball seal doesn't need to be replaced, and likely neither does the swivel ball. If yours are original, they are probably caked to hell and back, but if they're not leaking, it's not a problem (unless of course there's no fluid left). The axle shaft seal could be leaking, that would present with both diff fluid and swivel fluid looking identical - seal prevents transfer between. Generally, you check for bad bearings by jacking the wheel off the ground and trying to move it in a direction it's not supposed to move (up/down, in/out, top/bottom. Of course movement along those lines could also indicate other problem within the knuckle assembly, but either way, you're tearing into it to figure out what's going down.
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