Tightening up the steering....
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
Oil leaks make the rubber bushings go soft.
The transmisison cooler lines leak onto the bushings.
Replace the transmission cooler lines.
Replace the bushings - or bushing on the drive's side.
Snug up the steering play bolt on the steering box.
You'll be all set to go then.
The transmisison cooler lines leak onto the bushings.
Replace the transmission cooler lines.
Replace the bushings - or bushing on the drive's side.
Snug up the steering play bolt on the steering box.
You'll be all set to go then.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 2
From: San Juan, Puerto Rico
well i did non-poly from one of the parts guys here. rubber.
what i learned is that if your truck is gonna leak all over the rubber bushings, it's not good for them. fluids aren't a problem for polys. that's a selling point for mine. i just did the research on sources and pricing so if you want it let me know.
i might do poly on the D2.
what i learned is that if your truck is gonna leak all over the rubber bushings, it's not good for them. fluids aren't a problem for polys. that's a selling point for mine. i just did the research on sources and pricing so if you want it let me know.
i might do poly on the D2.
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 1
I was looking at getting the rubber bushing kit from roverparts.com for $150 and it includes everything to completely refresh the control arms and panhard rod for the front and back.
Being a sports car and motorcycle guy, I tend to gravitate towards the stiffest poly bushings I can find... But it has been suggested to me more than once to stick with the rubber if I plan to wheel at all.
I am curious to know how much of a PITA it is to do this work? There are a lot of press-fit bushings in this kit and I imagine I will be spending most of my time with c-clamps and sockets trying to press these parts in and out. My thoughts are to remove everything and take them to a machine shop where they can probably zip through everything in less than an hour.
Being a sports car and motorcycle guy, I tend to gravitate towards the stiffest poly bushings I can find... But it has been suggested to me more than once to stick with the rubber if I plan to wheel at all.
I am curious to know how much of a PITA it is to do this work? There are a lot of press-fit bushings in this kit and I imagine I will be spending most of my time with c-clamps and sockets trying to press these parts in and out. My thoughts are to remove everything and take them to a machine shop where they can probably zip through everything in less than an hour.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 2
From: San Juan, Puerto Rico
Last summer, my mechanic changed all the bushings on the D1 with regular black rubber bushings. Yesterday I ordered the regular black bushings from AB. When you do apples for apples it's like $130 more expensive for their Polybushings. I don't love the D2 enough but I probably would have done it if I'd known on the D1. There seem to be a couple different Poly kits with different prices. I believe ROvversNorth had the cheapest but I'm not sure of the brand.
Best things about the poly's....the won't corrode due to engine oil and other fluid contact..."they'll last forever" - Ride apparently is firmer.
As for the bushings...I didn't do it but I understand you should really have access to a press even if you take the bits to a guy to replace them for you. Go for that.
Best things about the poly's....the won't corrode due to engine oil and other fluid contact..."they'll last forever" - Ride apparently is firmer.
As for the bushings...I didn't do it but I understand you should really have access to a press even if you take the bits to a guy to replace them for you. Go for that.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 4
From: SF Bay Area
Get away from the rubber......and never look back. There are 3 available hardness levels for our LR's; soft, med, hard...
I have the medium, which is the similar feeling to stock. But under load, it works as a performance bushing....
Never go back...
I have the medium, which is the similar feeling to stock. But under load, it works as a performance bushing....
Never go back...
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 1
***UPDATE***
I replaced that steering damper that I was talking about earlier in this post and it DID in fact improve the steering feel a little bit... When I took off the old one, the (rubber) bushings were completely disintegrated. So that would explain the few degrees of slop that I was feeling at high speed.
THe new damper (or bushings more than likely) really cleaned that up. But there is still some "tippy-ness" to the ride that needs sorting. It is difficult to explain, but the disco seems to lean to one side or another.... It seems like it is biased to the left or the right... It just doesn't always sit flat and plumb while I am driving.
Also, especially when heavy braking, it seems to want to dart from one side or another.
I am thinking the forward radius arm bushings may be to blame... It would make sense that the worn bushings would allow the axle to move a bit and change the geometry just enough to make a difference....
I am open to other ideas...
I replaced that steering damper that I was talking about earlier in this post and it DID in fact improve the steering feel a little bit... When I took off the old one, the (rubber) bushings were completely disintegrated. So that would explain the few degrees of slop that I was feeling at high speed.
THe new damper (or bushings more than likely) really cleaned that up. But there is still some "tippy-ness" to the ride that needs sorting. It is difficult to explain, but the disco seems to lean to one side or another.... It seems like it is biased to the left or the right... It just doesn't always sit flat and plumb while I am driving.
Also, especially when heavy braking, it seems to want to dart from one side or another.
I am thinking the forward radius arm bushings may be to blame... It would make sense that the worn bushings would allow the axle to move a bit and change the geometry just enough to make a difference....
I am open to other ideas...
Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 267
Likes: 4
From: Southwest CT
Don't neglect to look in the rear suspension while you are trying to find an answer. The rear bushings and that upper arm ball joint will make the truck feel the same way, it wanders around from the rear and makes it feel unstable.
Personally, I would not use poly. I have in the past on other vehicles and found they did not hold up as well as stock rubber. YMMV. When mine go south I will be calling Trevor at Rovahfarm.
Throw the panhard rod in a pond and just buy a new one complete with bushings, the cost is well worth what you save in aggravation replacing the bushings. Royal PITA.
Personally, I would not use poly. I have in the past on other vehicles and found they did not hold up as well as stock rubber. YMMV. When mine go south I will be calling Trevor at Rovahfarm.
Throw the panhard rod in a pond and just buy a new one complete with bushings, the cost is well worth what you save in aggravation replacing the bushings. Royal PITA.