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Towing harness

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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #11  
antichrist's Avatar
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Originally Posted by blackcloud
This is the route I took. Super easy, cheap, and works great. Hopefully sending you off to another forum is not taboo...
is right.
Using scotch locks is just asking for electrical problems down the road.
Just take the time and do it right the first time.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 10:42 PM
  #12  
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Doing it right would mean a $193 LR dealer harness which I would have to wait 7 business days to get. Not sure I am willing to fork over that dough. Scotch locks will get it home. Then I will take the time to do it right. Ideally I would like to find a complete harness out of a used or wrecked Disco. Not likely but that would be ideal.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #13  
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No, there's no need for the factory adaptor. I have one on the shelf in the garage and don't consider them of good quality. That's why I removed it.
Did you read the link I provided? Done for around $30 and still works perfectly after 7 years. If all you need is a 4-way flat, then it can be done for even less as about 1/2 the expense was the large 7-way/4-way socket.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 10:36 AM
  #14  
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I did Tom. That is exactly what I am going to do today. Really appretiate the advice!
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 10:41 AM
  #15  
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Looking at the connector on the trailer it's possible there are additional electrical accessories in the trailer (I would expect some interior lighting maybe runs off the tow vehicle battery which would need an additional circuit) and/or maybe they converted the lights to European wiring to eliminate the need for the adapter.

If you're going to be using this much, or for long trips, I would forget the flat connectors that dangle and install a quality 4-way round in the bumper.


Or 6-way round if you need the circuits.


They look a lot tidier, plus there's no worry about wire abrasion.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by antichrist
is right.
Using scotch locks is just asking for electrical problems down the road.
Just take the time and do it right the first time.
I absolutely agree. I grabbed that link in a hurry and forgot about the scotch lock reference . I also agree that in the short-term it will get the trailer home, but afterwards, either solder and heat-shrink or use a quality environmental splice (before anyone squawks about the splices, there's a few thousand of them, properly crimped and shrunk, flying over your head every day).
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 08:56 PM
  #17  
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Yeah, there's nothing wrong with a good crimped splice.
Uninsulated terminals, die-electric grease, good solid crimp and adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to keep out the elements.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 10:23 PM
  #18  
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the plug on the trailor tonge should be for the lights. their should be a pig tail that plugs in to that then in to ur truck
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 06:21 AM
  #19  
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Hit a snag. While wiring the temp harness I realized the rover has a seperate brake light wire. The camper utilizes a shared taillight brakelight. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:35 AM
  #20  
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go to autozone or walmart, they sell an adapter box that links the brake and turn signal wires into one for each trailer light.
 
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