Trailer wiring
#1
Trailer wiring
I know this has probably been asked about a hundred times....oh well... what is the deal w/ the wiring harness for a trailer? I remember seeing something in the manual that said it was in the side/rear by the folding seat, so how does it go from inside the cab, to out side? and I'm assuming i need a wiring harness? thanks in advance
#2
This is the kit I bought 4 yrs ago and I do not regret it one bit.
Land Rover Trailer Wiring Kit - Trailer Wiring Kit & Land Rover Parts at Roverparts.com
Land Rover Trailer Wiring Kit - Trailer Wiring Kit & Land Rover Parts at Roverparts.com
#4
Because European cars use separate amber turn signal's as opposed to the single brake/turn that the domestics tend to use you need to combine the turn/stop lights from the tow vehicle into one because the trailers all use a single turn/stop bulb.
Does that make sense?
I know I'm not explaining it very well.
Let me try another way, your Rover has separate brake light and turn signal bulbs, trailers have a single stop/turn bulb.
The lights on the trailer will not work without the black box.
Does that make sense?
I know I'm not explaining it very well.
Let me try another way, your Rover has separate brake light and turn signal bulbs, trailers have a single stop/turn bulb.
The lights on the trailer will not work without the black box.
#5
I hope you have better luck with the black box than I did. 2 years of running....3 boxes. They keep shorting out and I finally had enough.
Purchased a 6 pole connector, wired one end to the truck, and the other end has spade lugs on it. Made up other trailer plugs so no matter what the trailer plug is, I can adapt to it.
The "trailer" side of my plug is long enough to go out the back door with 4 ft of wire. I used heat shrink to insulate each lead, then dielectric grease, and one more covering of heat shrink. So far so good.
When those boxes short out either a) it takes out half of the truck lights...or b) blows fuses so you can shift out of netrual. Makes stopping for gas a great experance.
Purchased a 6 pole connector, wired one end to the truck, and the other end has spade lugs on it. Made up other trailer plugs so no matter what the trailer plug is, I can adapt to it.
The "trailer" side of my plug is long enough to go out the back door with 4 ft of wire. I used heat shrink to insulate each lead, then dielectric grease, and one more covering of heat shrink. So far so good.
When those boxes short out either a) it takes out half of the truck lights...or b) blows fuses so you can shift out of netrual. Makes stopping for gas a great experance.
#6
go to uhaul, you'll pay less then 20 for the adaptor, then splice it in to the factory harness behind the seat. you fold the seat out, and reach down and you'll find it. i never ran mine outside the truck i just pull it out whenever i need it cuz i never got around to finishing it, but this kit works perfect.
U-Haul: Moving supplies: U-Haul 4-Way Flat Piggyback
U-Haul: Moving supplies: U-Haul 4-Way Flat Piggyback
#7
I dont like cutting wires, opens them up to all kinds of corresion.
The kit that I bought 4 yrs ago and still works great is a plug and play system, not cutting of wires needed, took me 10 min to install and the connector is in the truck, I run the trailer plug into the truck and leave enough slack for turning.
I prefer the plug and play, but each to their own.
The kit that I bought 4 yrs ago and still works great is a plug and play system, not cutting of wires needed, took me 10 min to install and the connector is in the truck, I run the trailer plug into the truck and leave enough slack for turning.
I prefer the plug and play, but each to their own.
#8
#9
If you buy the kit from AB they want you to run the wire harness through a plug in the floor.
I just run it out the back door and shut the door on it making sure you keep it away from the door stay.
Leave enough slack outside of the truck so as to be able to turn corners without over stressing the harness.
When not in use I rubber band the harness and stick it back into the storage bin.
I just run it out the back door and shut the door on it making sure you keep it away from the door stay.
Leave enough slack outside of the truck so as to be able to turn corners without over stressing the harness.
When not in use I rubber band the harness and stick it back into the storage bin.
#10
You can combine the brake and tail lights by using 4 diodes...
You don't need to buy an expensive adapter .... But they are nice...
Maybe I'll draw up something and post it in a minute..
I just pulled the 7 pin connector that was hanging underneath the truck back up inside.. Ran my 4 wire from the hitch to the inside.. Then cut the wires off the connector, Soldered and heat shrink the diode connections... Should be bullet proof..
The only down side to this is that the brake lights will override the turn signal...
John
You don't need to buy an expensive adapter .... But they are nice...
Maybe I'll draw up something and post it in a minute..
I just pulled the 7 pin connector that was hanging underneath the truck back up inside.. Ran my 4 wire from the hitch to the inside.. Then cut the wires off the connector, Soldered and heat shrink the diode connections... Should be bullet proof..
The only down side to this is that the brake lights will override the turn signal...
John
Last edited by JPSpen; 12-08-2012 at 01:07 PM.