Hello Fellow rovers,

I'm digging into my 96 D1 173K miles to get her ready for our next snow season at home. I am overhauling her brake system, fuel tank fill neck, suspension overhaul, and performing some drivetrain maintenance. Maybe even replacing her HGs depending on how some tests go.

Ever since ive owned her the transfer case gear box has only functioned in High unlocked. Low unlocked, high locked, and low locked do not work at all. Pretty much just seems and feels like its in neutral. I havnt payed too much attention to it since it still drives well in high unlocked. Im hear of a heavier snow this coming winter and id like to have full function to the tcase restored.

Is there some things I can try before having to remove/rebuild my tcase?? The dif-lock light does not come on by the way, and I have noticed that its leaking slowly from the inspection plate..... If its going to be costly ill just limp through another winter this way...

Thanks,
Brian

 

The transfer case shifting mechanism probably needs some attention. I'd tear into it and see what's (not) going on. These things tend to freeze up from corrosion and dirt if not used. When it is working, you need to engage the lock and low in a specific manner detailed in the manual.

 

ok after 5 minutes of driving with a rover expert we found that 4 low does work fine. just needed to play with the main gear box (D,N,R,N, then engage) after that it freed it up well and engaged just fine if you are rolling slow in neutral, rolls smooth as glass in 4 low. The dif lock isn't working though, Seems like the sensor may be bad since the light does not come on. Im going to drain the tcase this weekend to see if there is any metal flakes maybe there is some kind of issue internally that is keeping it from binding up.

 

The diff lock light is turned on mechanically by a switch on top of the TC. I replaced my switch as the old one had frozen up and stopped working. If you remove the surround of the gear shift might have to drill out the rivets and change out the switch quite fiddly not a lot of room, you can see if the linkage is working also. To test the dash diff lock light when you unplug the old switch short out the connector and turn the ignition on it should light up if the bulb id good.

 

If the switch is seized in the off position you can be locked and not know it and end up shattering your center diff.
Until you get the switch sorted make sure your CDL is really unloclen by jacling up one front wheel and turning it by hand. If you can't turn it, you're still locked.

 

OK. I understand what 'locking the center diff' means...sends equal power front and back. At any given time any diff will send power to the wheel that slips so by locking the center you have a better chance of having some grip because you are sending power to both axles. Fine.

Why are the front/back axles unable to handle the unequal wheel rotation rates as any other 2WD vehicle would? I presume it is related to the gearing and geometry inside those diffs, but would love to hear from experts to give me just a bit better understanding of why the above statement is true.

Hope I don't sound too stupid.

 

with the cdl in the locked position in either low or high, the light is not on, and when each tire is jacked of the ground the tire still rotates. This tells me the CDL is not functional at all. Ill survive without it until I have the time to tear it out and reseal/address the CDL issue.

 

With the CDL unlocked the center diff works like a conventional axle diff. With it locked it's like locked axle diff, in other words, like an axle that's solid all the way across, no slipping.

So you jacked up one wheel and were able to rotate the wheel? Then your CDL isn't locked.

 

My question was overly wordy and unclear. Simple question is....why is it the case that you can damage the driveline by running locked center diff on dry/paved roads where the wheels are not likely to slip?

 

CDL makes it hard to turn on engaged. its Really only for getting out of a jam. If your CDL was locked and you were performing a hard turn at speed in normal driving conditions.... pop goes the pumpkin. Makes your tires turn 1:1 in theory. All those fools who modify their ford rangers know how that feels making a left turn...