Trolling for ihscouts' 2,000th post
Hey
I have these recurring codes for misfires; 1313 and 1314 with the occasional 1316 thrown in for good measure. (table below for exact wording)
I have a long 25mph ride out of suburbia on the way to work. Codes pop up during the first block of driving. If I clear them they don't come back till the next long slow ride. New: Cats, crank sensor, o2 sensors, plugs, wires. noid light says good strong spark on all cylinders while running. Fuel everything less than a year since replacement. (Well almost everything, didn't get the injectors benched cause too much rusty crap looked like it was going to cut loose if I tried to get them out) Ohmmeter on the coils, looks good, dunno, electric is not really my thing but I think I managed ham hand the meter correctly for that.
Truck runs great. Barely bump the key and she roars. Never gives any indication of misfires. Only other thing that might be pertinent is she takes about four seconds to drift down to idle speed on cold start, but I don't have any reference to judge against to see if that is excessive.
Man I'm stumped. And I'm real tired of doing the clear-codes-drive-cycles-holy-***-its-got-enough-complete-to-pass-inspection-I'm-drivin-too-fast-to-get-there-holy-crap-I-hope-it-doesn't-throw-a-code-in-line-here-at-the-inspection-station shuffle.
As always, any and all help and suggestions are welcome. Especially from ihscouts.
That is all.
P1313 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A P1314 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank B P1316 Misfire Excessive Emissions Fault
I have these recurring codes for misfires; 1313 and 1314 with the occasional 1316 thrown in for good measure. (table below for exact wording)
I have a long 25mph ride out of suburbia on the way to work. Codes pop up during the first block of driving. If I clear them they don't come back till the next long slow ride. New: Cats, crank sensor, o2 sensors, plugs, wires. noid light says good strong spark on all cylinders while running. Fuel everything less than a year since replacement. (Well almost everything, didn't get the injectors benched cause too much rusty crap looked like it was going to cut loose if I tried to get them out) Ohmmeter on the coils, looks good, dunno, electric is not really my thing but I think I managed ham hand the meter correctly for that.
Truck runs great. Barely bump the key and she roars. Never gives any indication of misfires. Only other thing that might be pertinent is she takes about four seconds to drift down to idle speed on cold start, but I don't have any reference to judge against to see if that is excessive.
Man I'm stumped. And I'm real tired of doing the clear-codes-drive-cycles-holy-***-its-got-enough-complete-to-pass-inspection-I'm-drivin-too-fast-to-get-there-holy-crap-I-hope-it-doesn't-throw-a-code-in-line-here-at-the-inspection-station shuffle.
As always, any and all help and suggestions are welcome. Especially from ihscouts.
That is all.
P1313 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A P1314 Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank B P1316 Misfire Excessive Emissions Fault
Well here I am! I just got off work, had two cups of coffee and a smoke and you own my 2k post!
Those codes are tough ones, you had to pick this to be my 2k post...... crap. You can't feel it in your can but they're there. These are tied to the crank sensor, it's the one responsible for the counting revs. The A and B are every 200 revolutions, the 1316 is every 1k. Something is just a hiccup away from smooth. Normally after those three codes you get one that picks out which cylinder but your not getting that - it's oblique. Also the the ECU is comparing the engine load to the revs and then setting the MIL when faulted. When you clear them they're still stored which is why they don't hesitate to pop quickly again.
If it where me I'd check my crank sensor/connector/wires and flywheel tabs - just to rule them out. Then I'd toss a bottle of Techron in the tank to clean up my injectors. Since you mentioned the trans taking awhile to wind down to first gear I wonder if it's bogging the motor just enough to trip the timing up?
Those codes are tough ones, you had to pick this to be my 2k post...... crap. You can't feel it in your can but they're there. These are tied to the crank sensor, it's the one responsible for the counting revs. The A and B are every 200 revolutions, the 1316 is every 1k. Something is just a hiccup away from smooth. Normally after those three codes you get one that picks out which cylinder but your not getting that - it's oblique. Also the the ECU is comparing the engine load to the revs and then setting the MIL when faulted. When you clear them they're still stored which is why they don't hesitate to pop quickly again.
If it where me I'd check my crank sensor/connector/wires and flywheel tabs - just to rule them out. Then I'd toss a bottle of Techron in the tank to clean up my injectors. Since you mentioned the trans taking awhile to wind down to first gear I wonder if it's bogging the motor just enough to trip the timing up?
Well here I am! I just got off work, had two cups of coffee and a smoke and you own my 2k post!
Those codes are tough ones, you had to pick this to be my 2k post...... crap. You can't feel it in your can but they're there. These are tied to the crank sensor, it's the one responsible for the counting revs. The A and B are every 200 revolutions, the 1316 is every 1k. Something is just a hiccup away from smooth. Normally after those three codes you get one that picks out which cylinder but your not getting that - it's oblique. Also the the ECU is comparing the engine load to the revs and then setting the MIL when faulted. When you clear them they're still stored which is why they don't hesitate to pop quickly again.
If it where me I'd check my crank sensor/connector/wires and flywheel tabs - just to rule them out. Then I'd toss a bottle of Techron in the tank to clean up my injectors. Since you mentioned the trans taking awhile to wind down to first gear I wonder if it's bogging the motor just enough to trip the timing up?
Those codes are tough ones, you had to pick this to be my 2k post...... crap. You can't feel it in your can but they're there. These are tied to the crank sensor, it's the one responsible for the counting revs. The A and B are every 200 revolutions, the 1316 is every 1k. Something is just a hiccup away from smooth. Normally after those three codes you get one that picks out which cylinder but your not getting that - it's oblique. Also the the ECU is comparing the engine load to the revs and then setting the MIL when faulted. When you clear them they're still stored which is why they don't hesitate to pop quickly again.
If it where me I'd check my crank sensor/connector/wires and flywheel tabs - just to rule them out. Then I'd toss a bottle of Techron in the tank to clean up my injectors. Since you mentioned the trans taking awhile to wind down to first gear I wonder if it's bogging the motor just enough to trip the timing up?
Yeah, crank sensor, hmm, didn't even consider that since it is brand new and resolved a no start. It is a duralast from schlautozone, cause that's what I had time to get, went in sloppy with that brain dead cover as it was getting late (boy do my neighbors love me working on the old girl with floor lamps set up in my driveway). Didn't get a look in the hole, guess I'll have to do that. Maybe I'll order an OEM one for good measure.
When I mentioned the spin down I was referring to engine rpms on startup. It just seems to take a long time to settle down to idle at cold start, that's all. Most likely unrelated. On my old Volvos this usually means the butterfly won't close right and the throttle body just needs a good clean.
Drove into the depths of hell (well, Newark NJ, same diff) to grab a Craigslist cement mixer last night, four hours round trip, no codes. Then went four blocks to quickeemart for coffee and it threw codes there AND back.
Well I'm just and old man yelling at the clouds now, what can you do. I will recenter on the cps and report any and all findings.
Wish I knew where you were, this weeks coffee and smokes would be on me for all I've learned lurking in your posts.
Last edited by geek_IM; Oct 15, 2015 at 06:14 AM. Reason: Fat fingers on a little phone
I've had some really bad luck with Autozone crank sensors. I went through 3 sets of them on one truck. My father in laws dodge. Every 2-3 weeks truck would pop a code or start randomly stalling. Or have a no start situation. 3 times I replaced it. Then on the 4th time I went to the dealer. The truck has been fine for 3 months now.
I read everything I can get my hands on in many different subjects. I get bored though but I never get bored with people. EVERYBODY has something new to bring to the table of life. That's what it's all about.........
Posting fool is right, I've kinda been on a binge lately but it feels so damn good....! Hey, everybody's got at least ONE bad habit. Besides nobody can see me picking my nose behind the keyboard.
Shifty, excellent heads up. I don't know if it's the pup pooping on the rug but the guilty look is kinda giving the tiny critter away......
Posting fool is right, I've kinda been on a binge lately but it feels so damn good....! Hey, everybody's got at least ONE bad habit. Besides nobody can see me picking my nose behind the keyboard.
Shifty, excellent heads up. I don't know if it's the pup pooping on the rug but the guilty look is kinda giving the tiny critter away......
Sub lime service light, I've been in your shoes, alone wondering why the hell did I buy this POS? But shear determination to make good on my decision has won me eight years of pretty faithful service. Honestly it's been remarkable.......
I've got over 40K posts on other auto forums. Not sure if that's bad or what. I've took a break here lately and only posted here.
Yeah that's great if your using ten digits to type with. Try just using your left nipple like me. At my age I can barely get goose bumps..... I'm nearly setting my chest hair on fire with 2000 posts!


