My 97 Disco (142k miles) takes several tries to crank when it is cold. Once it's warm I have no problem with it running or starting again. Where would be a good place to start?

 

I had a very similar problem i just fixed with a fuel pump. (23$ and some fuel line hose) here's the question that'll tell you if it's the same issues as mine or not: forget warm or cold. If you come out to it after it sitting all night and it hesitates to turn over and takes a bunch of tries but then it finally turns over....right then, if you shut it off and try it again while it's still cold does it fire right back up again? That was my issue and it was the fuel pump slowly losing pressure as it sat. Had nothing to do with hot or cold. If that's the situation you can get a fuel pump off eBay and do it for cheap.

 

Could be fuel pump, worn out spark plugs, cheap gas.
Try this, turn the key to the "run" position for 5 sec, than back off, and back to "run", off...do this 3-4 times and then try and start it.
Report back.

 

Get pressure gauge (borrow from auto parts store loaner program) and measure schrader (tire) valve on passenger fuel rail. Should be 32-34 psi when truck is cranked and running. Fuel pump normally builds up this pressure. Fuel pressure regulator (on back side of fuel rail on driver side) has vac line and controls this pressure to injectors, It can leak, vac line can leak, etc. But with a gauge you can see how much leak is happening under which conditions. Ans Spike is right, the pump only runs a few seconds if truck is not started, so switching key on/off will make it run extra cycles.

 

How about better describing the cold start issue, is your battery low, starter slow, cranks at normal speed and won't start, when was it last tuned along with a fuel filter and 8 mm silicone plug wires?

 

The starter doesn't seem slow and the battery is brand new. I just bought this vehicle so I don't know when the last tune up was. I'm new to Rovers soI didn't know if maybe there was a sensor or something along that line that wasa common problem.

 

Pick one and start there.

 

The 60K Mile Service Sticky is the Best place to start.

Always use the highest octane gas available.

Unless the plug wires are new, I would replace them. Buy the 2 dollar Champion Copper Spark Plugs, Clean your MAF with CRC MAF Cleaner. Get a new air filter.

And have fun with it.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to work on it this weekend and report back.

 

That's exactly what my '97 started doing a couple weeks ago (85K miles).

Tried everything short of checking the fuel pump....

- pulled the plugs and checked the gaps, they are less than 5K miles old
- disconnected and cleaned all connectors to sensors and injectors
- checked all plug wire connections (older wires, but Magnecor, so still good)
- pulled the IAC valve and cleaned it, though it didn't need it
- put a can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas, to clean the injectors
- replaced the vac line on the fuel pressure regulator
- cleaned the MAF sensor
- installed a clean filter

Finally checked the fuel pressure. It was only 25#. Replaced fuel pump and the car is starting fine now. 32-35# is "normal", and if the return line is pinched it should even rise above that.

Next time, I'll check the fuel pressure first!

You can get a replacement pump only, or replace the whole assembly. It's all done through the floor of the trunk compartment, so is a lot more accessible than most fuel pumps... just be very careful of the gasoline vapors, while the pump is out and the tank is open to the air.

Unfortunately, now I'm having all kinds of strange readings from the fuel gauge. Full tank... at start-up the needle drops gradually below empty and the warning light comes on. Then it rebounds slowly to around 3/4 tank, warning light goes out, and then wanders around between 1/4 and nearly full (though tank is certainly full). Pretty much useless now! It's always something!