i havent jump started it yet, thats a live form the battery positive to the starter solenoid or to the starter proper? Im not really clear on how to do it. If you could expound im willing to try anything. I'd hate to yank the starter to bench test just to find out its not the starter

 

I never tried either , but I read about it.Basically first think must be to avoid injury . So first thing disconnect ground on the battery ,then go under the truck and connect positive clamp of the jumper cables to the solenoid screw on the starter motor , negative clamp to the frame ( ground).Trucks transmission must be in the park.Connect ground cable on the battery and go inside the cabine and put key in the position 2. Now go outside and connect negative jumper cable to the ground on the battery.With positive cable you are now controlling starting of the truck , so connect positive cable to the positive of the battery and when truck start , disconnect that positive cable immediately or you could damage the starter motor.That's it.

 

that scares me..^^

I would rather check the voltage at the starter FIRST.

By one click, do you mean it CLICKS one time each time you turn the key to start, or you have to turn the key to off and then back to start to get it to click.

If its the second it DEF sounds like a lockout.

But f its the first. Agian check the voltage to the starter.

In my last truck I drove 100 miles payed 60$ to get my old starter [fixed] installed it. No worky. Replaced with new and turned in old. [100$] No start. It was a BAD cable connector to the battery.

Try jumping past the batery post clamps straight to the wire.. Just a thought. It has happened to me.

 

It's a click every time I turn it regardless of whether it goes back to off or not and when I feel for on the starter when somewhere.else cranks it it feels like the solenoid. I'll try the ohm meter first.

 

Take a long screwdriver and crawl under the truck with the parking brake set and the trans in park of course and key off.

Take the screwdriver and stick one end on the positive terminal on the starter, now touch another part of the screwdriver onto bare metal, if the starter cranks then it is good.
Replace solenoid.
To test the solenoid leave the key on and do the same thing.
If it cranks then the solenoid is good.
This whole process takes like 2 min.

 

Spike, no homo, I love you.
I'll report back soon.

 

Turf, I believe if you do that you'll need a new screwdriver

The pos from the batt goes to the input of the starter solenoid.(top large terminal)

The bottom large terminal goes to the starter motor to drive it.

The small third terminal is powered by the ign. switch

When you turn the key, 12v goes to the small term, causing the solenoid to slap in, connecting the two large (hi amperage) terminals. This powers the starter motor.

You got one (or both) things happening, either the positive connection or ground is bad (top starter mount bolt to frame)
Or the solenoid is bad, (more likely bad connection)

In either case, I'd disconnect the ground from the batt while your under there.

(P.S. - we all love spike)

luck,greg

 

You will only need a new screwdriver if you leave it there to long because it will weld itself to the truck.
But all you need is a quick tap or two, the first one will scare the hell out of you, but once you change your pants the next time you try it you will know what to expect and be just fine.

I have started many a farm tractor this way as well as a front end loader and a car or two.
It is NOT the preferred way to start a engine but it works in a pinch.
The solenoid must be good to start a engine like this because that is what kicks out the starter gear to engage it with the flywheel.
Bad solenoid and the starter will just spin all day long (and overheat and fry itself)

 

Both Greg and Spike are both correct.

Spike's method is what we older guys call a "Spark-Trician" . It will arc and spark and try to weld itself in place, but if you know that, it's not too bad.

 

Yeah, im def gonna try first thing when i get home after work today. I had a 10k race yesterday and was in no shape to do anything afterward. I'm optimistic about this because it'll atleast let me know if its worth pulling out the starter as opposed to going in blind and yanking it to have it bench tested somewhere. I cant imagine it's the alarm still, i do believe some series of the lock/unlock combos that were suggested did reset whatever issue might have been presenting itself with the alarm. At this point im just not getting any spin from the starter, one dead click and nothing. Hopefuly, i wont make my screw driver a part of the truck, and hopefuy it'll tell me what i need to know.