Hey All,

After greasing my dry front and rear drive shafts a couple weeks back, my downshift clunk has returned. Pretty sure it is coming from the front prop shaft, so my inclination is to pull it and replace the u-joints, following Tom's prop shaft rebuild sticky in the D1 tech section.

Btw, I can move my front shaft a couple of inches (guesstimation) in either direction by hand.

Is this normal?

Some questions:

1. Are the Precision brand universal joints here OK (I don't want to pay $35-70 for the parts AB and RN respectively are selling)?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1462&ppt=C0362

2. Since I have a D1 with a stock front prop shaft, do I need to buy the centering kit (forgive my ignorance here)?

If so, can anyone suggest a decent one to buy?

Cheers!

 

A little bit of play is normal for these trucks. I would recomend changing the transfer case and diff oils while your under the truck to some 80/90/140 gear oil, itll quiet it down most of the time
#1 I run the #344 precision joint in my truck with no problems, i get mine from the local NAPA store and they usually have them in stock

#2 D1 driveshafts dont have the centering ball you should only have 2 ujoints on the front shaft. As far as replacing the shaft I wouldnt bother unless the splines are worn out.

 

Thanks, Long Haul.

I think the splines are fine. The t-case and diff oils were changed about 3 years ago by a local shop, so it's probably time to make the switch anyway. Hopefully that and some new joints will resolve the noise.

My local Napa sells the same part for $7 more, and the O'Reily's is a few miles closer so...

I also have the classic clunk from Drive/Neutral to Reverse after running for a while (not when cold), but I assumed that was something I would need to live with/embrace.

I have the work penciled in for this weekend's TODO list.

Cheers and thanks again!

P.S. From your handle, I assume you drive a truck for a living? My great uncle Hank (RIP) was a long haul driver until he was in his 70s. I remember being stoked as a kid when he would roll up into town (Sacramento, CA) from one of his trips (he was based in OK, SD, and various other states) and take me for a cruise in his truck. He also had his smokes rolled up in his sleeves, which I always assumed was a hallmark of all truckers. I wanted to be a trucker, too, but I ended up as a software engineer.

 

Yeah ive been an over the road driver for about 5 years now but unfotunately due to health reasons im gonna have to give it up. So i'll probably go back to working for the local NAPA again (i still get employe discount)

Anyhow if its been 3 years on the oil change I would definately be putting that on my to do list.

 

Change the fluids, u-joints and see if it still clunks. Don't forget the front swivels pin housings. Do you have the RAVE manual downloaded? Its under OKDISCOGUY's signature. And I double-dog-dare you to roll up a pack of smokes in your shirt and go to you're work like that.

 

Hahahaha is there any money involved? If so ill roll my can of chew up in my shirt and do it lol

 

Yep. Those are on my list, too, and I do have the RAVE downloaded.

I think I might get a few dirty looks if I rolled up smokes in my shirt. Would be funny though.

 

Well that's a bummer about having to give up the driving job. Sorry to hear it.

 

I will add that you should mark the shafts before removing so you get them lined back up the same way. You may also want to swap for heavier oil in your t-case and diffs. The play you reference is the slap you hear. The u-joints won't fix it. Heavier oil will help.

I am not saying don't replace the u-joints. Do it. You may also consider taking the shafts to a driveline shop and have them go it and balance them when they are done. The new zerks are on the ends of the caps and not in the valley, so the weight distribution may be a little off. Cost me $125 to have both of mine done. I took off the front, locked the t-case and had the front done, then pulled the rear. You can drive lightly around town with the t-case locked on one shaft. DO NOT Drive on dry pavement with the t-case locked with both shafts installed...

 

Only the Neapco/PDQ u-joints have the zerk in the end cap. Precision are in the valley.
Be sure you clock the u-joints correctly as described in the sticky. Also grease the well after installation, I don't remember if that's stated anywhere.