Hi all ,

In the next few months I am planning on doing some work on my Rover. Looks like I will need to do my head gaskets. I have a few questions on what to do while I'm in there. Since I have it broken down so far I was wondering on what else I should do. I was thinking I should probably replace the timing belt. Does anyone know of a better cam to put in for better performance (head work would likely also be done)?

What do you guys think? Timing belt? Cam? Head work? What gaskets besides head gaskets will I need? Does anyone sell a complete set? Chances of fuel injectors needing replacement? Will it need tuning with a cam/head work/exhaust?

My primary goal is head gaskets, but since it will be broken down pretty good I would like to get everything that I can replaced or upgraded. Of course I'm on a budget but I would like to hear all the ideas. Time is of little concern as I have two vehicles.

Thank you for the help!

 

Land Rover Parts and Accessories from RovahFarm for a head gasket kit, make sure it has new head bolts too.
There is no timing belt, it is a timing chain, the timing chain will last the life of the engine.
No need to replace the cam either, it too will last the life of the engine.
Putting in a "hotter" cam will only make it run rough at idle and will not increase power.
It runs, be happy with that.

 

Trevor sell's a complete with the bolts for about $150 last I looked. Rovahfarm is the cheapest you will find the kit. Just tell Trevor what you are doing, he knows the routine and will make sure you get the parts you will need for the job. Couldn't ask for a nicer guy to do business with.

Have the heads done, valve job and resurface. No sense taking a chance once you are in there. Find a big burly biker guy to remove the head bolts and invite him back when it's time to torque the heads back on. They are a biotch!

Timing chain MAY last the life of the engine, IF the oil was changed regularly with good quality oil. You won't need to remove the front cover for the head gasket job so don't sweat it. Crower makes a cam that does increase HP, though not a whole lot. It will increase torque more than anything. Starting with little HP and torque you don't gain a whole lot for the $. Adding any HP or torque to an aging Rover drivetrain is just a good way to break something.

 

IMHO with vehicle years I'd also be looking at the radiator (have a shop rod out and flush - about $75 near me if you carry in to a small shop that does farm and construction gear) and maybe a water pump. As mentioned above, the trip to the machine sop is worthwhile, they'll take care of the valve seals that come with the parts kit, and the heads will be milled or at least checked for spec, which is 0.002 inch, or about 1/2 the thickness of printer paper.

What makes you feel that HGs need to be done at this time?

 

x2. What's the mileage? If it's not showing any particular symptoms, like pressure building in the coolant, water in the oil, or extremely poor running, run some tests.
Compression test - remove all plugs at once. All cylinders should be within 10% or so of each other. If one is low add a few teaspoons of oil and see if the pressure comes up. If it does it's probably rings. If it doesn't it's likely valves
Cylinder leak down test - How to do Cylinder Leak Down Testing
Coolant test for combustion gasses in the coolant

Head gaskets aren't a maintenance item (though it seems some replace them so often you might think they are). The are a repair to only be done when needed.

Camshaft-You can if you want to spend the money, but only really needed if it's worn. The shop manual tells you how to check it for lobe wear, which you could have depending on the mileage and type of oil used.

Timing chain - Again, depending on mileage. If there's a lot of slack replace it and the cam and crank gear.

There are some specific tools you'll need, like a quality (Snap-on, Matco, etc) 5/8" 6pt socket for the head bolts. I've split cheaper ones removing head bolts.
Torque angle meter (only needed if you use the OE torque-to-yield head bolts vs ARP studs.
3/8" torque wrench for the initial torque of the head bolts. This is a good quailty one: CDI 502LDFN Dial Torque Wrench. I definitely recommend against the click type for this application.

I'd pull the heads from your parts car and get them done (you definitely want the heads at least milled). Also use the ancillaries from your parts car. That way you can have nearly everything cleaned and ready to go.
Do not use the rocker arms, push rods or cam followers from the parts car. Wearing parts like that should be left mated to the original part. Though if something is worn really bad on your Rover it could be better to use one from your parts car rather than continue with the badly worn part. You can use something like purple power to clean up the rocker arms and push rods.

Mainly though, do the tests and report your findings.
You may find that your time/money would be better spent on real maintenance items, like hubs, u-joints, shocks, springs, suspension bushings, etc. Unless you've done it I bet they haven't been serviced in way too long.

 

if you are going to be that far apart and haven't done them coolant hoses( can be bought as a set), thermostat, you may need the green orings for the fuel lines,the pcv hoses and a real good cleaning inside the intake and plenum imo

 

Make sure you take photos and mark items. Its not that hard, use the impact sockets(not the gun) for the head bolts. Clean everything! Mine runs so much better after I did the work. Like buzz said have the rad cleaned. Guy told me mine was 1/4 full of crud.

 

Check out the In Search of the Experience DVD. I highly recommend it. It has a complete walk through on a HG job and Swivel Pins, and is a cool short movie about Rovers and their owners. http://insearchoftheexperience.com/dvd-orders/
If you can find someone that has done the heads before definitely enlist their help. Last HG I did my firend and I knocked out in a day. Tear down is a breeze, reassembly takes more time because everything has to be torqued to spec.
Try Will Tillery for the HG kits, too. He was selling complete gasket kits along with machined heads for a good price. You just send your old heads back when pulled.

 

First off thank you all for the advice. I will keep all this in mind.

I reason why I was going to do this was due to being a known issue and the acidity level of the antifreeze when I changed it. (Which was the worst I have seen, actually burned on my skin)
No symptoms yet. I don't need to just thought it would be a preventative maintenance.
I also will use my money on other things that I do need to service in a few weeks.

Thanks!!

 

Sounds like a good decision, at least if I understand it. LOL
There's nothing wrong with performing the tests I mentioned just for added assurance, they aren't in any way detrimental.
Glad to hear you changed the coolant, most people don't like they should.
A good investment would be a Motive Power bleeder and then flush the brake system. Another thing people don't do like they should.
I suggest going through the list of service items in the PDI & Maintenance section of the RAVE. Do them all that you haven't done, except replacing the cats.