Remove amplifier.
Connect ohmmeter leads to two pick-up terminals in
body of distributor.
The ohmmeter should register between 2k and 5k
ohm if pick-up is satisfactory. If ohmmeter reading is
correct, check all connections between pick-up and
amplifier, if satisfactory, fit new amplifier. If engine still
does not start carry out Test 5.
Change pick-up if ohmmeter reading is incorrect.


It doesn't get any easier than this test. So what is the reading?

 

To be brutally honest the number one fault with dizzy spun spark Rovers is with the amplifier itself. Heat is the enemy and by mounting it to the distributor body it gets more than it's share. Just read the initial static timing is 6 degrees before top dead center.......

 

Thank you Scouts - that test had been done and the pickup coil resistance reads exactly correct - it consistently reads 3.3 K Ohm

I am into the third amplifier now in a month - the last being a genuine Landrover OEM part. It is mounted between the ignition coil and the radiator. The connection from/to the distributor seems quite good.

To me it seem hardly likely that these things can only last for a week, or two weeks at the best, with very little driving?

I still have the strange, sporadic alarm when I unlock the doors from the driver's side with the key and get into the car. Most times there will be no alarm and then suddenly it will sound off. The repeater LED on the dash has never illuminated.

Sometimes I distrust what ancient knowledge I have: Pse confirm that on this engine with the crankshaft indicating TDC or 4 degrees BTDC, and the no. 1 piston is at (almost at) TDC, those two conditions can ONLY occur on the compression stroke and NOT the exhaust stroke?

Andries

 

Sure, during compression stroke pressure will only leave the spark plug hole, no valves open. During exhaust stroke you can hold a finger over spark plug hole and initially you will have some pressure and then when valve opens you'll get zero pressure through spark plug hole as it will now be exiting through the exhaust valve. Yes, you can time it 180 degrees out, it's the compression your looking to time it correctly.

Yes, I doubt three amplifiers will fail in short order, I agree and 3.3k is fine.

 

The apparent intermittent sparking puzzles me.

There was a time when she would spark and start immediately on a down hill - at the very moment the clutch was released, but NOT with the key. This despite a perfect battery and very good cranking - no problem there. Now:

Question: say we discard the immobilizer idea for the moment: Even on a starter motor which is turning so well, can the resistance be so high that the spark voltage is too low for ignition maybe?

I'll try again tomorrow to organize a tug and see if she starts.

 

Have you checked the negative wire from the battery to chassis? Might be a good idea to clean up posts on chassis including the engine grounds to chassis as well.

 

In fact I was going to but forgot to tell you; I removed all these and sanded the connections -all were very corroded. The strap between the engine bottom left and grounding on the body near the ignition coil was even partly loose at the crankcase. Certainly the current flow will be better than before.

Just to put my mind at ease about the timing chain - I'll open the rocker cover at the right-hand to check for movement. Presently I hear very displaced ignition timing (in my experience and opinion). The distributor and rotor are exactly as they should be as well as the timing marks. It is just that I had turned the engine off after a long trip two weeks ago and three hours later she would not start.

Thanks for your patient thinking about it.

 

Scouts,

"Yes, I doubt three amplifiers will fail in short order, I agree and 3.3k is fine."


What do you make of this?

1. I connected the battery positive directly to the ignition coil LT + and immediately there again was a single backfire. Other observations regarding this direct connection:

1.a The normal lights light up on the instrument cluster as if the key had been turned to position 2.

1.b When I make this connection, the normal 3 relays click as if the key had turned.

1.c When I remove this connection the normal relays click again, followed by a "zzzzzt" sound from the plenum chamber. This zzzzzzt does not happen when the key is turned on and then off. What would make this noise when the direct power is removed, and why not when the key is turned off?

2. With this direct connection made there still is no start (still the distinct fuel smell).

 

You just bypassed the ignition switch and activated the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). What's the condition of the spark plugs? Are they wet? Have you tried holding the throttle pedal down while turning the motor over?

 

1. 100 miles new spark plugs - they are a little sooty and a little wet. I checked them after the last run immediately when the vehicle would not start - I think leaking injector with at leas four of them. The other four are good.

2. I certainly held the throttle down, presupposing a rich mixture (whether that in facts opens the throttle air valve completely I am unsure, with all the elctronics involved). There is no change. There however is the slightest indication that she just potentially may fire, but it does not happen really. You know, when their is NO spark or NO fuel the engine simply spins with no apparent back pressure. Your thinking is correct - there is a distinct fuel smell after starting attempts.

• One must remember that she regularly since the beginning had engine failure soon after first start in the morning and after 5 minutes would start and run normally.This worsened and new spark plug leads solved that.

• The start difficulties began but a tow fired her up instantaneously on lettingbthe clutch go, or even the slightest downhill - at first stroke.
• Then she went dead like now. A new ignition control module solved that.
• The after a weak the problem returned - no key start, but a tug or down hill immediately fired her up.
• O'Reilys said the new internet bought control module was not working and wanted to sell ne one for $588. I ordered a similar one for $31 and she started immediately.
• Then a week later the same problem and the ignition coil tested iffy. I ordered a new Bosch (as per the RAVE spec), as well as a UK made Landrover part ignition control module and installed both and she started immediately and ran perfectly for about 10 days, and then this.

It just so happened that this time the start problem was accompanied by the alarm sounding when I opned the front passenger door with the key.



The dichotomy which gets me presently is this:


1. There IS intermittent sparking. Listen to this: I would test with the coil lead close to the engine - zero spark.


2. Then I remove No. 1 cylinder spark plug, attach its lead, ground it and there will be a regular (maybe weak) spark. Now THIS gets me confused I can tell you.