I just lifted my 98 D1 2.5" and I got zero vibrations after. I changed nothing but FJ80 coils up front and spacer in rear. Thats weird how every truck is different. When you changed the front U-joints did they even seem like they needed to be replaced?

 

The fronts did look like they needed to be replaced. The rears were tight and seemed to be ok, but since I am ?? owners into the rig and not knowing what has been done and what hasn't, I wanted to start by replacing the easy things. My truck has 170K on it so I figured I would need the following:

1. u-joints
2. plugs/wires
3. suspension
4. rotors
5. wheel bearings
6. valve cover
7. suspension bushings


These of course are in no particular order. I have done all but the plugs/wires and suspension bushings.

But when I replaced the rear u-joints I made marks on the flanges as well as the axle flange/transfer case mount area. I wanted to put the driveline back together exactly the same way I took it apart, but the paint marks I made became unclear or disappeared completely. So I am not sure if the flange was mount to the driveline exactly as before of if the driveline mounted back up to the axle/transfer case exactly as it did when I took it off. So I may just need to take the driveline in and have it balanced.

But again I think removing the rear driveline and then driving the truck to see if it is the culprit is that possible?

 

I think you can lock in the CDL and drive it with front driveline only. I blew a rear shaft in my chevy and limped off the trail with front wheel drive only one time, dont see why it wouldnt work in the rover.

 

would driveshaft spacers help with pinion angle? even a little?

 

Not really. Its at the transfer case end where your going to run into problems. The way the suspensions are on these truck the pinion angle always stays a constant (in stock form) but most of the angle is going to be at the transfer case end. I have 5" lift under my truck now but still running the the factory rear shaft its at its limit but with a 3" I had to change my front to a double cardan because the front shaft is so short it changes the angles a lot quiker then the rear.

My best advice is lock the CDL remove front driveshaft drive it around to see if your vibration is still there. If it is install front driveshaft and remove the rear. It wont cost anything to try just a couple hours time.

 

Thanks I will give that a try. I noticed that the rear drive shaft u-joint is not 100% centered in the flange. I can not get the grease gun on to the grease zert on the u-joint. It is pretty close to one of the flanges so that might be the issue, but I will definitely pull the drive lines one at a time and test it out to see which drive line is causing the vibration.

But if it is the pinion angle how do I fix that? With a double cardon driveline?

 

The only way you can change the pinion angle in the front is going to be new offset (cranked) radius arms. In the rear if the pinion is to high you can add a couple washers where the trailing arm goes into the bushing (basically makeing the arm longer) if it is to low rovertym sells a new A arm ball joint relocater.

With a single joint driveshaft you want both angles the same at the transfer case and the diff. If you go with a double cardan you want the driveshaft to be straight with the rear if that makes sence. www.4xshaft.com has some better diagrams and explains the angles a little better then I can.

 

ok I removed the rear driveline and the vibration went away. I put it back and it came back. So that tells me that there is either an issue with the driveline or the pinion angle. I will have to do as Spike says and load up the back with weight to see if the vibration goes away. kids, old rotors and other misc. junk to fill the back up. If that resolves the vibration issue then it is pinion angle.

again if it is pinion angle then I will have to take it to a suspension shop to get the angles all aligned. *sigh* stupid 2" lift

 

Long Haul is this what you are talking about?

http://www.rovertym.com/index.php/Di...-Bushings.html

 

Yes that what you want if you have a high pinion angle. That one include different spacers to get it set correct.

This is what you need to raise the angle http://www.rovertym.com/index.php/Di...Extension.html