Want diagnosing help: rough idle at warm start-up
#11
The fact that you have to "give it gas" to get the stumble to clear up is a sign fuel is leaking through the injectors into the cylinders. You actually aren't giving it gas, you are giving it more air to help burn the excess fuel. P1178 often shows up shortly before the fuel pump pukes.
Attach fuel pressure gauge, pressurize fuel system, turn key off, watch for pressure drop.
#13
FYI - I haven't seen the code other then the one morning in popped up but wasn't there next start up.
I also haven't been able to get the stumble at warm start-up since changing the fuel filter either...doesn't mean its fixed, I don't have many warm start-ups.
#14
I think I cleaned it soon after purchase (over a year ago) but haven't since.
FYI - I haven't seen the code other then the one morning in popped up but wasn't there next start up.
I also haven't been able to get the stumble at warm start-up since changing the fuel filter either...doesn't mean its fixed, I don't have many warm start-ups.
FYI - I haven't seen the code other then the one morning in popped up but wasn't there next start up.
I also haven't been able to get the stumble at warm start-up since changing the fuel filter either...doesn't mean its fixed, I don't have many warm start-ups.
1. Buy 12 more O2 sensors
2. Buy a new fuel pump
3. install new fuel pump
4. Paint yer "bonnet"
5. Pay your friggin FLRC dues for 2012
6. attend the Spring Rally in Richloam
7. Wheel the snot out of that 97
8. if you are losing pressure at the rail it is either a bad injector(s) or the fuel pump. the FPR (as has been stated) merely regulates rail pressure based on manifold depression...
9. I have a spare WORKING window ecu for sale... one meeeiiiilllliiioooonn dollars.
#15
D to the B... three things you should do.
1. Buy 12 more O2 sensors
2. Buy a new fuel pump
3. install new fuel pump
4. Paint yer "bonnet"
5. Pay your friggin FLRC dues for 2012
6. attend the Spring Rally in Richloam
7. Wheel the snot out of that 97
8. if you are losing pressure at the rail it is either a bad injector(s) or the fuel pump. the FPR (as has been stated) merely regulates rail pressure based on manifold depression...
9. I have a spare WORKING window ecu for sale... one meeeiiiilllliiioooonn dollars.
1. Buy 12 more O2 sensors
2. Buy a new fuel pump
3. install new fuel pump
4. Paint yer "bonnet"
5. Pay your friggin FLRC dues for 2012
6. attend the Spring Rally in Richloam
7. Wheel the snot out of that 97
8. if you are losing pressure at the rail it is either a bad injector(s) or the fuel pump. the FPR (as has been stated) merely regulates rail pressure based on manifold depression...
9. I have a spare WORKING window ecu for sale... one meeeiiiilllliiioooonn dollars.
You free this weekend? I could use your multi-meter professionalism and would bring consumable gifts.
#16
Dangit, I really can't argue with anything on this list...though I've completed #1 and #5, and #4 is for mall crawlers. I mean seriously, I flat-blacked my wheels so I'm not too worried about appearance here!
You free this weekend? I could use your multi-meter professionalism and would bring consumable gifts.
You free this weekend? I could use your multi-meter professionalism and would bring consumable gifts.
Sounds great and I have a deal for you... meet me halfway in Richloam. I'll be runnin the swamp this weekend and would be happy to have you come along. The mm and the mobile tool shop are always in the back (which is the only reason my mpg's suck) so if you've got the time, I'll meet ya up by sr 50 and I-75 sometime. Hell, I may even need you to pull me out of a muddy hole. bring your camera...
#17
WOW that is the fastest payment received (after months of cajoling) for dues EVER!
Sounds great and I have a deal for you... meet me halfway in Richloam. I'll be runnin the swamp this weekend and would be happy to have you come along. The mm and the mobile tool shop are always in the back (which is the only reason my mpg's suck) so if you've got the time, I'll meet ya up by sr 50 and I-75 sometime. Hell, I may even need you to pull me out of a muddy hole. bring your camera...
Sounds great and I have a deal for you... meet me halfway in Richloam. I'll be runnin the swamp this weekend and would be happy to have you come along. The mm and the mobile tool shop are always in the back (which is the only reason my mpg's suck) so if you've got the time, I'll meet ya up by sr 50 and I-75 sometime. Hell, I may even need you to pull me out of a muddy hole. bring your camera...
#18
Fuel Pressure results
Hot idle: steady 32 psi
Turned off hot: steady 37 psi for at least 20 minutes
During stumble at hot start up: steady 32 psi
After sitting for a couple hours: currently around 20 psi
Cold Start ups: no stumble, starts right up no problem
Anything of note from these results?
I'm not sure how it could be related, but I think my brake booster diaphragm is toast - because whenever I apply pressure to my brakes it sounds like I'm airing down a tire. Brake's work fine like normal and pedal is normal, doesn't go to floor and isn't stiffer than normal. Any possible relation?
Also, I have a tick when warmed up and under load, the tick speed and loudness parallel heat and load (acceleration).
#20
Touche. And for the most part, I don't need to. However, I'd like to know if I can expect my fuel pump to go or have leaky injectors etc. so I can be proactive rather than get stranded...and obviously I don't want to just fix all possibilities for no reason.
Leaky injectors still seems to be my first guess, but the fuel pressure gauge didn't confirm it as the truck held pressure steady at 37psi after turned off for at least 20 minutes.
Leaky injectors still seems to be my first guess, but the fuel pressure gauge didn't confirm it as the truck held pressure steady at 37psi after turned off for at least 20 minutes.