I regularly tell people to do proper maintenance on their vehicles. I have had my DiscoI for 5 months now, and I still have not completed this list. Ever wonder why mechanics don't 'practice what they preach'?

60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased

Flush Brakes
Flush and change the power steering system with Dexron 3 ATF high mileage
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive, if you wish. It will only take about half. Repeat again next oil change. Drain and fill. The reason for twice is the inability to drain the torque converter. This will get you a majority of new fluid.
Change the coolant and t/stat
Clean the throttle body before changing the oil.
Do an induction cleaning ( Sea Foam) before changing the oil.
Now you can change the oil. Remember, you can only go 5K max on drains. No extended drains for all of the synthetics out there. I have done the analysis on mine at 150K on the ticker. They aren't tight enough.
Add fuel additive (Sea Foam or BG 44K) to Partial tank and fill it up all the way. Don't fill up again until you hit 1/4 tank. Don't go too low either. Running past 1/4 is hard on your fuel pump as it is cooled by fuel.
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change T-case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts. 3 on front shaft if you have a factory D1 shaft, 4 plus the centering ball if you have a D2 shaft. you will either have 3 on the rear (mid 97 to 99), or 2 if you have a rotoflex.
Drain and fill swivels. Not all swivels have drains. Check levels and condition of fluid. These things leak, so if they are down, add some from the one shots.
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.

Yeah, I know...I'm just prolonging the inevitable. Hopefully soon I will have the time to actually finish the 60k service before spring. For the record, We only put about 80 miles a week on the Disco.(not a good excuse, but makes me feel better)

disclaimer: this is in no way a justification for anyone else to not do their 60k service. I just happen to be too lazy to crawl around in my gravel driveway in the freezing cold or in the rain.

 

Flush Brakes
Flush and change the power steering system with Dexron 3 ATF high mileage
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive, if you wish. It will only take about half. Repeat again next oil change. Drain and fill. The reason for twice is the inability to drain the torque converter. This will get you a majority of new fluid.
Change the coolant and t/stat
Clean the throttle body before changing the oil.
Do an induction cleaning ( Sea Foam) before changing the oil.
Now you can change the oil. Remember, you can only go 5K max on drains. No extended drains for all of the synthetics out there. I have done the analysis on mine at 150K on the ticker. They aren't tight enough.
Add fuel additive (Sea Foam or BG 44K) to Partial tank and fill it up all the way. Don't fill up again until you hit 1/4 tank. Don't go too low either. Running past 1/4 is hard on your fuel pump as it is cooled by fuel.
Change both of the diffs fluid (REPEATEDLY!)
Change T-case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter (SPECTRE!)
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts. 3 on front shaft if you have a factory D1 shaft, 4 plus the centering ball if you have a D2 shaft. you will either have 3 on the rear (mid 97 to 99), or 2 if you have a rotoflex. I don't know how to do this.. and the RAVE confuses me still. Any write ups with pics?
Drain and fill swivels. Not all swivels have drains. Check levels and condition of fluid. These things leak, so if they are down, add some from the one shots. Same as above
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.

 

Aint it funny? I have a carpenter/construction worker a few houses down who's house sat with just foam insulation/sheething on the outside for years. Now it's about 80% sided(at that stage for 2yrs now).

I think people don't like to work, go home and do more "work".

 

Calebbo:

Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts. 3 on front shaft if you have a factory D1 shaft, 4 plus the centering ball if you have a D2 shaft. you will either have 3 on the rear (mid 97 to 99), or 2 if you have a rotoflex. I don't know how to do this.. and the RAVE confuses me still. Any write ups with pics?

1. Buy a good quality grease gun. Hand powered, cartridge fed. There are grease fittings underneath, find them, pump grease in until it oozes out. Do every 3k miles.
Along with oil change.


Drain and fill swivels. Not all swivels have drains. Check levels and condition of fluid. These things leak, so if they are down, add some from the one shots. Same as above
2. The sviwel ***** -My 97 has the drains at the bottom of the unit. I think they were small square drive heads. Clean trhem real good so you can see all the details if needed. Loosen the fill plug to ensure you can, loosen the drains, if equipped, tighten the drain plug, refill with either the gear lube or the one-shot refill available from several Rover suppliers. I know RN has it, I think Isaw it cheaper on RovahFarm possibly.

 

hey does anyone have pictures or a diagram of where all the fittings are on these? particulalry a 2000 model. just bought minght, still at the dealer gettin new greaseable ujoints in front, so as soon as i get it back its going to be completely tuned/fluid overhauled seeing as i dont trust dealers (especially this one) nor do i have any records from previous owner obviously. i have a greaser filled with mobile 1 synthetic ready willing and able to go, i just dont know what is, or where anything is on these babys yet to get crackin!

 

First off congrats on the purchase. Download the RAVE(see my signature). I hear that the DiscoI section is the most active, but you may get better help in the section that specifies your rig. They are other owners that know your model rig better than we.

 

Thanks for the list, I'll use as inspiration for my spring break project!
I'm thinking of using Seafoam for sure before changing oil and transmisson fluids, maybe even a vacuum-induced/Seafoam motor treatment?
I'm also planning of starting using Lucas products in transf case & transmission, also motor "honey"?

 

.edit removed. but thanks for the rave zip, downloadin now.


ive seafoamed before, never a disco obviously but it is good stuff. ive never used it in a transmission or diff case though? dont even know if thats advisable. ive only used it in engine oil, and vac lines. with fuel ive found the techcron concentrate + by chevron to be choice as far as fuel injector cleaning... seafoam is great to clean ultra high pressure injectors like pickup diesel motors though by flooding the water/fuel seperator canister before a start up and hard run.

ive used lucas stopslip and oil stabilizer in my crown vic and my bmw r850 motorcycle respectively and didnt notice any difference, plus or minus in noise, feel or ride. slip i only got to stop with a flush and refill with hihg miliage synth atf.

 

Not a damn thing.

 

I've had my Disco for 2 ½ years and the 60k isn't completed yet

Flush Brakes-They were partially flushed when I rebuilt front and rear calipers
Flush and change the power steering system with Dexron 3 ATF high mileage-It flushes itself every three weeks or so
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive, if you wish. It will only take about half. Repeat again next oil change. Drain and fill. The reason for twice is the inability to drain the torque converter. This will get you a majority of new fluid.
Change the coolant and t/stat
Clean the throttle body before changing the oil.
Do an induction cleaning ( Sea Foam) before changing the oil.
Now you can change the oil. Remember, you can only go 5K max on drains. No extended drains for all of the synthetics out there. I have done the analysis on mine at 150K on the ticker. They aren't tight enough.
Add fuel additive (Sea Foam or BG 44K) to Partial tank and fill it up all the way. Don't fill up again until you hit 1/4 tank. Don't go too low either. Running past 1/4 is hard on your fuel pump as it is cooled by fuel.
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change T-case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts. 3 on front shaft if you have a factory D1 shaft, 4 plus the centering ball if you have a D2 shaft. you will either have 3 on the rear (mid 97 to 99), or 2 if you have a rotoflex.
Drain and fill swivels. Not all swivels have drains. Check levels and condition of fluid. These things leak, so if they are down, add some from the one shots.
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.

And I had to repair a couple of things...t-case failed, water pump failed, belt tensioner failed on the highway (funny story I repaired it with an 8$ bearing and it still works), rebuilt swivel housings, and I'm chasing a hot start problem. I love my truck