What're we using for replacement radiators?
#11
08-05-2021, 12:53 PM
I want to know what is good. I have a perfectly good stock brass radiator. It runs pretty cool, doesn't leak, and I can see the solder bloom is not too bad. When I first got the vehicle, I had to have the oil cooler nipple re-brazed. Since then, I've ran it for the last 10 years (it's original so 23 years in all). I wonder though, if there is a better Aluminum radiator or if they're just cheaper. We know Aluminum is theoretically better, but it still has to be made better in fact. My brass radiator is thick and heavy. On hot days (90's), coolant temps can run as high as 209 F on long highway grades or on slow trails when only the fan is blowing air over the radiator. I do have a good water pump and new fan clutch from some years ago. Those were both necessary at the time but definitely working well now. I recently replaced the rubber hoses because they were 10 years old -- still good, but getting a little hard. I also flushed and changed out the coolant because it was also old. I had just been wondering about changing the radiator while I was at it. I'll probably get many more years out of the stock one.
Your experience also kind of validates my opinion that a lot of the coolant temp nanny-ing is unnecessary. I'll update with some numbers once I get the new one in.
#12
08-06-2021, 10:01 AM
I have posted this before and never got a good response on what the temps should be, I am guessing it varies so much depending on terrain, temps, motor speed, etc. but I have seen mine go from 193-219 on a relatively flat highway at 70 mph depending on outside temps. which can be from -35 to 110F anything below about 80, temp is between 199-210, above 80 and it can hit 225 before I shut it down as too hot. the dash gauge is pretty much useless as it doesn't move until it gets too hot and sometimes moves for no reason at all. I use a OBDII scanner to monitor engine temps.
I just opened the box to check the radiator from FCP and it looks to be undamaged... The adapters are supposed to arrive today or tomorrow, not sure if I will need them but if I do, I will have them on hand.
I just opened the box to check the radiator from FCP and it looks to be undamaged... The adapters are supposed to arrive today or tomorrow, not sure if I will need them but if I do, I will have them on hand.
#13
08-06-2021, 10:19 AM
Up until recently I'd lead myself to believe that anything over 205-210ish is an instant death sentence for your rover V8. The head gaskets will cease to gasket, the liners will come loose in their bores, and you'll be in the middle of nowhere spewing steam from your oh-so-fragile Disco.
I've spent a lot of money now, chasing a probably nonexistent "problem".
I've spent a lot of money now, chasing a probably nonexistent "problem".
#14
08-08-2021, 12:11 AM
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Neal@lorientconsulting.com (06-06-2022)
#15
08-08-2021, 10:33 AM
Got the Nissens unit in with no leaks, and I'm getting pretty good at getting the air bubbles out now that I've done it several times back to back. Between it and the 180* thermostat (that starts opening ~175* and is the first of FOUR to function properly) she runs ~185-190 on the highway. Coming home from work today in the heat will be a good test.
I'm happy with it, and happy to leave all these worries behind for now. I can't wait to get back East and get away from these 75mph speed limits. 60 is a good number.
I'm happy with it, and happy to leave all these worries behind for now. I can't wait to get back East and get away from these 75mph speed limits. 60 is a good number.
#16
08-09-2021, 01:10 PM
Rock Crawling
I just did a Ebay 4 row all AL unit. Where do I start..
It was too tall for fitting factory fan shroud. Had to cut new holes to attach it. It sits 5/8 taller than stock.
The oil cooler fittings were aluminum copies of the early range rover/disco that screw in the rad. Center hole was way way too small for the cooler pipes to fit. And to add into that galled into the rad fittings. Slowly carefully removed them, then chase with a 3/8-19 bspp tap and installed 8an fittings for the cooler lines.
Hole for oil passage into the rad cooler was 1/4 in dia. Had to open that up to 3/8 in.
Side mounting tabs/pins on backwards. Pin was closer to engine side than bumper side. Had to grind off an redrill new holes then get pins rewelded on.
Other than that its pretty nice. LOL If I did it again I would go for the AlliSport one. If you count all my time/new tooling added to make it right and the base $300 for the Ebay unit. It would be damn close to what Alli asks for one.
It was too tall for fitting factory fan shroud. Had to cut new holes to attach it. It sits 5/8 taller than stock.
The oil cooler fittings were aluminum copies of the early range rover/disco that screw in the rad. Center hole was way way too small for the cooler pipes to fit. And to add into that galled into the rad fittings. Slowly carefully removed them, then chase with a 3/8-19 bspp tap and installed 8an fittings for the cooler lines.
Hole for oil passage into the rad cooler was 1/4 in dia. Had to open that up to 3/8 in.
Side mounting tabs/pins on backwards. Pin was closer to engine side than bumper side. Had to grind off an redrill new holes then get pins rewelded on.
Other than that its pretty nice. LOL If I did it again I would go for the AlliSport one. If you count all my time/new tooling added to make it right and the base $300 for the Ebay unit. It would be damn close to what Alli asks for one.
#17
08-10-2021, 03:31 PM
#18
08-11-2021, 09:11 AM