Hi All-

Getting down to the less-important stuff on my '97 LSE. Mechanically pretty sorted once I get the drag link bathed in enough Liquid Wrench. So what's on my mind now is the ECU that operates the windows.

My driver's side window doesn't operate but all others do. No clicking, whirring, jamming, etc. Dead. It was dead before it was parked for 12 years accordig to the PO's father. It's well documented that the solder joints fail on these things. I've removed mine and don't have what I think is an easy fix. There's some corrosion? or what I think looks like corrosion on some of the beads, but nothing that looks like it would be breaking contact. And it's on quite a few of the joints. Almost looks like termite damage, if that were a thing on electronics. I haven't yet brushed it with a toothbrush or used electrical contact cleaner on it because I know there's no undoing damage if I make a mistake here. But those were my next steps to get a better look.

Any ideas on next steps based on the pics that may or may not be attached? And if it comes to it, is the ECU on a D2 interchangeable? That would widen the field if I go to ebay or pick-n-pull for a replacement. TIA

edit: I did swap out the switches in the console and feel it's not that. So either it's the ECU or something in the door itself. And I thought it's more likely the ECU based on what I've read. Also, if you click into the pic, it zooms in to a level where you can see what I'm talking about. otherwise it's not really perceptible.

 

Check the window motor and it's connector, the Window ECU is the last step and yours looks fine. Since the driver's side window is used far more than any others it's brushes tend to wear 1000% more than the others.

 

thanks for responding. Are you seeing the corrosion around some of the solder joints? I just want to make sure you're seeing what I'm asking about. It's not cracked, but it looks like there's dirt coming up through the PCB layers.

 

I can’t see what you’re seeing, even magnified the pics. I don’t think there’s an issue with it. The solder issue has always been cold solder joints, cold solder isn’t shiny, it’s flat.

 

if it was the ecu your rear windows wouldn't work. I had to re solder the ecu on 3 of my trucks. on all 3 the fronts worked but not the rears.

 

Its normal, Not sure what causes it but its been on several ECU's I've pulled (all working fine).
Id wager money that the window motor in the door is worn out, or that the connector shorted out(uncommon).

You can go ahead and touch up all of the solder joints on the ecu, since you have it out, to prevent any issues with the rear door windows in the future.

 

The angle of the picture makes it difficult to say for sure, but I see four solder points I'd take a look at. When I did mine the yellow circle was the culprit. (see link here. the picture is turned 90 degrees from yours https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...89/#post535946 )

 

thanks all for the input. I flowed a little more solder onto the 4 joints @waltnyc showed but when I took a closer look at the whole board, it appears I cracked the corner enough to break contact on a few of the circuits when I was pulling it out. Put it back together hoping for the best...but no. Now the rears AND the driver's side don't work. Oh well! Looks like I'll source a replacement from p-n-p or ebay PLUS tear into the door panel, which I was really hoping to not have to do.

Sigh. To the future travelers researching these threads, be careful with the card as you pull it out.

 

Contact the two guys in my signature, one of em should have it.

 

Will the bypass (as documented here: https://www.roverparts.com/Instructi...tRepairKit.cfm) bypass the ECU for the rears entirely, or only whatever issue is caused by a faulty solder joint? If I can just splice a wire to get where I was before, I'd be happy enough for the time being.