Anyone know or remember how to get this dang top plug disconnected from the window lift ECU? The bottom one just pulls out, but there's some kind of clip and I can't seem to get it out and I'd like to not break it or yank the wires out.

Thanks.

 

I seem to remember having to squeeze the sides/clip and wiggle back and forth while pulling.

 

Looks like you need to insert a small pick or pocket screwdriver into that slot on the right and push down on the tab to release it.

 

I used a pair of pliers that came to an elevated point so it just squeezed at the end and not in the middle. Pulled it out pretty well, I struggled really hard with that one using my hands.

 

I shoved something (small screwdriver or flat pick) into the hole on the clip and moved it around while swearing and it eventually came out.

PS: I soldered all my bad connections and it still won't work!

 

So... I'm driving around doing Xmas shopping yesterday. My 2 year old goes... Mom, I want the blue truck back.... The 4 year old concurs and ,my wife gives me the you better get that white one working soon look...

 

The clip on the side pushes in and that is supposed to release it. You can remove the circuit card without removing the connector ( I did ).

I reflowed all the solder joints and mine works fine, I have heard of others having to do it twice for success.

Mine had a couple of fine hairline cracks in some of the solder joints that looked good until you pushed on the lead with a probe, then you see the crack open. Reflowed, works fine now.

NGA, I agree with the kids, you sold the wrong one man.

 

First off, sorry NGA ROVER! I'm sure the white one will be great once its ready and rolling!

Secondly, I did FINALLY get the plug out, after much frustration, cursing, breaking the lift ecu and more cursing. Hooked up the "working" lift ECU I had ready and still nothing. I really doubt this replacement one just needs some good soldering too, since I already tried that with the first one, but I will give it a close twice-over later.

Am I left with thinking BOTH rear window motors are bad? I've checked (thanks cosmo) the plugs for resistance, the switches, the lift ecu is getting power, etc. but no noise coming from the rear windows at all.

I'm going to get a multimeter to double check that power is coming from THIS lift ECU, but if its the motors...my rear windows are going to stay up for a while.

Thanks.

 

I had to solder mine twice. The first time I only did the connections I could see were bad. The second time I did them all. Also they sell this: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/AMR1282RK.cfm Good luck I know this can be awfully frustrating.

 

Thanks. I'm definitely going to try a complete re-solder first.

$15 for rear windows (should the re-solder not work) is a great price, IMO. Is that simply a piece to bypass the lift ecu altogether?