I have been considering this for awhile, but I want to run it by you guys to get your opinions.

The issue: Every time we park, someone left their window rolled down, so I have to grab the keys back out and turn to accessory to roll them up.

The solution: Would it be possible to connect the window ECU's power input wire directly to the battery and place a relay between the battery and ECU which is triggered by the interior light circuit? I'm guessing the window ECU distributes power to all of the windows. If so, powering the ECU should allow window operation regardless of whether the car is in accessory, correct?

 

Sounds logical, be sure to include an in-line fuse to any new wiring. May trigger other things. Will allow youngsters to amuse themselves by running window up/down until smoke comes out, as happened to me in dad's Bonneville on Daytona Beach....

 

And... would that relay "logic" an that you only could operate windows if dome light was on? And would applying power tothe ECU without other alteration to wiring also power up other things you don't want on?

 

That was my original idea, but it seemed like an awkward configuration.
So, I did it like this:

Original Configuration:
Fuse #15 (10AMP fuse) -----> ECU terminal #3 (lightGreen/Purple wire)

Notes:
Fuse #15 is supplied voltage when the key is turned. When terminal #3 on the ECU receives that voltage, it allows the four window motors to receive power and ground from the ECU ONLY when the corresponding switches are grounded (by a user pressing them). I took this info from the rave manual.

New Configuration:
Battery -----> 10AMP fuse -----> ECU terminal #3 (lightGreen/Purple wire)

Notes:
It works perfect. The windows roll up and down without the key.

 

OK. But how long before battery is drained by this new 24 hour load?

 

I'm not sure. Is there an easy way to test the load on the battery?

 

With this test I get .015 amps
I'll borrow a different meter later today to doublecheck

Battery Drain Parasitic Draw Testing

 

While testing, I'd suggest unplugging hood alarm switch. If battery dies while alarm is on, it will remember that when you jump start with hood open, and immobilize truck.

 

Oh wow I never thought of that. Actually, I bypassed the hood alarm switch as it was shorting and causing the alarm to sound at 3 in the morning. Strangely enough it only seemed to do it in the morning.

I'll post the drain results soon. Meanwhile if anyone else could run the test and post their results it would be interesting to see.

 

Okay, the drain results are in.

With Constant ECU power: 170mA
Without: 5mA

Unfortunately, a big difference as you suggested. I am thinking of a timeout allowing window functionality for a minute or so after ignition circuit is off.