01 D2 coolant issue
#1
#2
The coolant sensor is monitored by the ECU for a number of things, including the temp gauge. If you don't have a scanner, a parts store can read your codes and tell you the coolant sensor reading at the same time, usually free. Fan should spin freely (it is electric) and come on when coolant gets to 212F or under certain conditions stted in the RAVE shop manual.
What is happening with your truck?
What is happening with your truck?
#3
#5
If you unplug relay, and short the pins in the base connector that relate to pins 30 and 87 of the relay, fan should run. The relay coil gets + battery from the main relay, and the relay coil is grounded by a green & white wire that hits pin C0636-31 of the ECU. So no junctions other than back of socket under hood and the ECU itself. Of course, if the green and white wire is skint or rubbed against ground, it would hold fan on whenever truck was started.
If coolant sensor was bad the heat gauge would show strange, and OBDII port would have wierd coolant temp data.
RAVE says -
Will also throw codes, but truck will run with it unplugged, assumes default temp of 185F. BTW, makes me think Rover likes the 185F temp range instead of the 200 plus range...
If relay contacts are fried, consider that the fan is starting to short out, those extra current spikes of a "locked motor" can toast the contact points.
Fan is supposed to run as follows, and you may not see it run normally if it is a cool day.
If coolant sensor was bad the heat gauge would show strange, and OBDII port would have wierd coolant temp data.
RAVE says -
If the engine coolant temperature gauge receives no input or the input is out of range the
temperature gauge will read cold and the high coolant temperature warning lamp will be illuminated.Will also throw codes, but truck will run with it unplugged, assumes default temp of 185F. BTW, makes me think Rover likes the 185F temp range instead of the 200 plus range...
If relay contacts are fried, consider that the fan is starting to short out, those extra current spikes of a "locked motor" can toast the contact points.
Fan is supposed to run as follows, and you may not see it run normally if it is a cool day.
Electric cooling fan switching points:
For A/C system:
On When vehicle speed is 50 mph (80 km/h) or less and ambient
temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) or more
For A/C system:
On When vehicle speed is 50 mph (80 km/h) or less and ambient
temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) or more
Off When vehicle speed increases to (62.5 mph (100 km/h) or ambient
temperature decreases to 25 °C (77 °F)
temperature decreases to 25 °C (77 °F)
For engine cooling during normal running:
On 100 °C (212 °F)
Off 94.5 °C (202 °F)
On 100 °C (212 °F)
Off 94.5 °C (202 °F)
For engine cooling at ignition off (to counteract heat soak):
On If, within 10 seconds of ignition off, intake air temperature is 60 °C (140
°F) or more and engine coolant temperature is 110 °C (230 °F) or more
On If, within 10 seconds of ignition off, intake air temperature is 60 °C (140
°F) or more and engine coolant temperature is 110 °C (230 °F) or more
Off After 10 minutes or if engine coolant temperature decreases to 100 °C(212 °F)
I have a D1, and they are wired a little differently, their fans come on whenever the AC is switch on no matter what temp. Don't think the D2 improved on that, by having more under the hood, smaller radiator, in some cases larger engine, a single fan vs two, and letting the ECU do all the thinking.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 02-07-2013 at 09:17 AM.
#6
Going to get a new sensor and try that.
One other thing, looking at the parts book and rave, it shows the sensor as being a square plug, Am I looking at the correct sensor as this one has a round plug and sits between the alt and ac pump on the inlet manifold?
Going to remove the alt as this is the only way to get to it?
Thanks
#7
Before you do all that....
1. The sensor is working, because the gauge is working and there are no codes (like for out of range sensor).
2. The RAVE shows it as a round sensor, here is the pix from the electrical library.
3. The program logic is that IF coolant is under 212 F AND AC is not on THEN no electric fan. IF AC on AND outside temp under 82 F THEN no electric fan. It would be quite possible in cool weather for fan not to come on. (captials for logic tree, not shouting at anyone)
4. Do you have an OBDII scanner that shows the temp in digital fashion?
5. Does the same scanner show the coolant temp as ambient for a cold start, warming up to a logical value (180 - 205 F)?
6. You should be able to poke a straight pin into the green & white wire and ground it to make relay operate to make fan run. The ECU supplys a ground to make relay pull in. Wire could be broken somewhere. ECU could be bad. All sorts of evil ideas pop up.
1. The sensor is working, because the gauge is working and there are no codes (like for out of range sensor).
2. The RAVE shows it as a round sensor, here is the pix from the electrical library.
3. The program logic is that IF coolant is under 212 F AND AC is not on THEN no electric fan. IF AC on AND outside temp under 82 F THEN no electric fan. It would be quite possible in cool weather for fan not to come on. (captials for logic tree, not shouting at anyone)
4. Do you have an OBDII scanner that shows the temp in digital fashion?
5. Does the same scanner show the coolant temp as ambient for a cold start, warming up to a logical value (180 - 205 F)?
6. You should be able to poke a straight pin into the green & white wire and ground it to make relay operate to make fan run. The ECU supplys a ground to make relay pull in. Wire could be broken somewhere. ECU could be bad. All sorts of evil ideas pop up.
#9