I got an 01 Disco II on Monday. 140k miles. Overheating on the way home. Gurgling and water sounds. Coolant leaking/spitting out of reservoir cap and overflow tube. Read a million forum posts. Filled with coolant and properly bled. Ran fine for about 30 minutes, then temperature spike. Coolant still coming out of cap and overflow tube.
Brought her in to an indy shop in Charlotte that got pretty good reviews (and near my house, as this is my only vehicle). They did a pressure test, came back that I needed a new waterpump - leaking apparently (though I didn't have any drippage on driver side overnite). Bad thing is this place will only put in LR parts apparently, so it was pricier.
They replaced the waterpump and thermostat (as well as upper and lower fan shrouds - they crumbled when removed) and told me I'd need a new radiator soon - it has cold spots. They quoted me at $250 if it could be repaired (flushed/cored i assume?) or about $500 for a new one, plus labor. I was trying to wait a week on that (heard about a local guy on here that's good) BUT...
On the way home from the repair shop it got hot again and the 3 amigos came on.
Pulled into AutoZone (it was on the way) for more coolant just in case, and it was almost pouring down. Maybe from the transfer case? Filled coolant and drove it home.
It's parked until it goes back to the repair shop on Monday.

Could a clogged radiator be causing this?
Would else could it be (mechanic said head gaskets seem good, but not sure if they pressure tested it again after replacing tstat and waterpump)?
Does the thermostat have to be changed every time the red temp light comes on?
Would these overheating issues cause the 3 amigos to come on, but without them actually needing to be addressed?
Also, how difficult is it to replace a radiator? Would really like to put in an aftermarket one (way cheaper and less prone to blockage) but posts on here seem to differ as to what a PITA changing radiators can be.

Any help would be great.

 

Yes, a clogged radiator could cause that. So could a crack in the block with a loose liner allowing compression gasses out the cylinder under the head gasket. And that won't show up on a cooling system pressure test when done cold because it needs to be hot to happen. You know, like after driving it for 30 minutes.

No, you don't have to replace the thermostat every time. Yes, you do want a real Land Rover water pump. The aftermarkets ones I've seen are stamped metal impellers, while the real ones are a machined brass block. You pay for quality in this case.

Your 3 Amigos have nothing to do with the overheating. Someone just reset the codes before you bought it and you didn't know any better. Now they are back on with the same problem as before you bought it.

It's time to return it and get your money back if you still can (unless you only paid a couple thousand dollars for it).

These are not vehicles to buy in poor condition unless you get them cheap and intend to do your own work.

 

DarylJ - Thanks for getting back to me. I plan on keeping it (got it for a car that had to go and about a grant). Supposedly "everything looks solid" according to a reputable shop, except this coolant problem and the radiator's cold spots.

Would a chemical test indicate whether the hg's toast, even before fixing the radiator?

And what about an aftermarket radiator - yay or nay? and how hard to install?

Also, what should I expect with the 3 amigos, since they've only just come on...

Thanks,
Jeff

 

A chemical test (if what you mean is seeing if there are exhaust gasses in the coolant) is an indiscriminate test that will tell you that there is something wrong but not what. Sure, it's most likely to be a head gasket failure, but a head or block crack can do that same thing. And it happens on these motors, especially when they have been overheated several times.

I can't tell you whether there are any quality aftermarket radiators or not. I can tell you that it's not a big deal to change, but that is all relative. You need to drain the cooling system, remove hoses, pull the grille, remove the horns, remove some bolts behind them to get the brackets loose, and ten pull it. If you are accustomed to working on vehicles its a quick job. If you are not, who knows how long it will take.

3 Amigos can't be read by anything other than a proper scanner. Not just a regular OBDII one. So if this supposedly reputable shop actually is, take it back and have them read the codes. It will give you an indication of what you need to do to repair them. If that shop can't read the codes, you need to understand that they are not a Land Rover shop and have no business giving you the opinion they did about it looking "solid." You should also not bring it there and find a proper LR shop. These trucks aren't all that different from anything else on the road, but they do have their own quirks, their own special tools/diagnostics, and their own failure modes. Any shop giving you an opinion should know those things specifically about Land Rovers.

 

Get ready to do a physical exam on your truck. Go to the local auto parts store and buy yourself a small mechanics extendable mechanic's mirror. Buy some rubber gloves while you are there. Go home, grad a small but bright flashlight and go over every inch of your engine. You will find out where the coolant is leaking. I would start with the hoses. If leaking on the back of the engine, check the two heater hoses. Look for tale/tail traces of coolant or stains down the back off of the engine block off of the back of the valve covers. Check the top and bottom hoses and the small hose from the drivers side of the radiator under the top radiator cover and around to the expansion tank. There are also some seals that can leak. Take a look and see what you find. I would strongly suggest that you not drive it until you figure out what is going on.

As for the aftermarket radiator, I have used one on my 2000 and it is working out great. I got off of ebay from a recommended seller, can't remember which one. It was $120 delivered. As for the work to take it out and replace, it takes some time but is something that most anyone with a set of sockets, screwdrivers and a few hours can do. Remember you will need to unbolt the oil cooler lines and tranny lines. It is worth paying somebody a few hours worth of time to do the work. It is a pain the tail. In my opinion, it is worth paying $200 to have somebody do the work.

See if you can track the leak down and get back with us. Good luck, I feel your pain. Phil

 

Checked for leaks. None noticeable. Hoses seem fine - definitely not original, both from radiator get heat, but top doesn't seem to hold pressure. Topped off and bled. Let her get up to temp, then turn off. No loss of fluid and no amigos on.
Drive around block until it gets midpoint of temp gauge and stays. Pull into driveway, amigos turn on as I'm stopping. Temp gauge reads normal but coolant spitting steadily out of overflow.

Could this all be from a clogged/bad radiator?
Obviously could have a head gasket issue (like being shot ), but after reading about all the people on here that repair gasket only to have same problems re-arise. (And I don't have any other hg symptoms - no milkshake / coolant in oil, no custardy residue in oil fill, no sweet or any odor exhaust).
Would a bad radiator keep putting air in the system?
Sitting until she goes back in Monday to shop that replaced waterpump, see what they say and have the radiator done.

Love the truck. Used to be a jeep lover. Have wanted one forever. Plan on keeping her, just need to get it running safely (not so worried about smoothly).

 

Got a new radiator (from British Parts of Utah, after talking to DiscoMike), shop put it in. Call me today with "some bad news" - bad head gasket.
Pressure tested last week - leaking waterpump, replaced.

Bad, bad first couple weeks with my new ride.

Mechanic actually recommended Steal Seal, saying it would be a good patch for 6 months to a year. After he quoted me 2400 for head gasket repair (2k in labor) - sorry sir but as soon as it can be arranged she's getting towed outta there and back to my driveway, while I replenish the fortune spent on a new waterpump, 2 thermostats, top and bottom radiator shrouds and now radiator (when I brought it in to have it pressure tested for a hg issue :X).
Bummer is this is my only car, so if anyone has some suggestions until I can afford a new car or motor (not really excited about doing new hg, after reading about all bad blocks people find after a new hg or 2)...

Wish I didn't like Rovers so much...

 

Don't put that gunk in your new radiator, or you'll be buy another one soon. Fix it right, and seal the throttle body while you're at it. First time doing head gaskets on is probably a long weekend plus $350 worth of gaskets and a couple hundred for machine work on the heads. It doesn't take many tools. Just have a good torque wrench and buy new head bolts while you're ordering things.

You're insane to have one of these with an unknown service history (well, it's becoming pretty obvious now) as your only car. For what you have put into it so far, and gotten nowhere close to driving it, you could have bought a beater so you can at least get around on your own while you sort out your finances and your rover.

I'm saying this as someone who's been there when I was younger. I learned that hard way, and you'll probably need to learn the same lesson the hard way too. I know that I didn't listen to anyone when they were telling me either. But head over to Bolis (if its still there) and grab a beer and think about it. What else is going to go wrong? Probably something. If you have 2 beaters, at least you have a better chance of something that works to run out and grab parts in.