I agree 100% !! I can honestly say that it has no air. I have bleed it numerous times (to verify) and im pretty sure it's air free. I'm going to order a new tank this morning and I'm going to once again attempt to measure the coolant pressure with my pressure gauge.

 

All your replies are genuinely appreciated. I have verified fan belt routing , t stat install, and using a Stant pressure tester verified only a 10 to 14 pound pressure at the highest temp at idle. Even raising the idle and holding at 2k it's highest is 14lbs. Cap being rated at 16lbs I can assume that's ok. I also missed telling you guys that what provoked the initial head gasket job was the obvious external leak and the first tank cracking. Apologies I've tried to think this out so much I'm burnt out

 

There is a chemical test you can buy at parts store that tests for exhaust gas in coolant (HG leak, etc.) - about $50 and does maybe 15 tests. Having a digital readout with scanner or ultra gauge will tell you exactly what coolant temp is doing, ECU is designed to point needle of gauge at 50% over a wide range. It really is not a "gauge", it is an idiot light with a pointer ( low, maybe OK, and extra crispy ). There is also a replacement thermostat that is rated for 82C and runs the engine about 10F cooler.

 

you say you have preasure tested the system for how long? 20 minutes, 2-hours, over night. And at what preasure? you should be able to bring the system right up to 16-18 psi with just a few pumps and it should stay that way.

 

Here is a good test.
Well for me.
All the guys on here don't agree but..
I just heat up the engine to operating temp by driving a few miles.

Then I carefully remove the coolant cap.
If coolant does not rise - or lower when the cap is slowly taken off - then this is a GOOD sign.

If the coolant raises or lowers - there is air in the cooling system.

If you keep the cap off and run it at 1,200 RPM or so and coolant starts to come out of the top of the bottle - then combustion gasses are pushing it out.

If the level remains steady - then you are in really good shape.

And, it is probably just you got a bad bottle from the dealer.

Dealers are probably not selling OEM rover bottles now but just junk they get from wherever.

When I needed a coolant bottle for a 1997 - all the dealers in the Seattle area did NOT have a coolant bottle in stock for a 1997.

Our trucks are "off the radar" for dealers now.
Too old.

 

I pressure tested the system as it was running at idle to see if the pressure would rise at idle or as I raised the Rpms to 2k The most I saw it raise was at 10lbs at operating temp ( drive for 2mikes). I tested it engine off and it held 16lbs for an hour or so. All I left it on ther for.

 

I agree on the idiot gauge statement. The thermostat was a stock t stay. Not sure if the temp range. Since there's only one rover dealer here with 4 techs there it's kind of hard to get any info from them. Even when I worked 10 years at Benz next door. These guys are kinda anti social. Lol.

 

"I tested it engine off and it held 16lbs for an hour or so" so you have no external cooling leak. Now the bad news time to check for an intenal cooling leak time to pickup an CO2 coolant test kit.

 

I agreee. looking for one and Im praying the heads arent cracked. thank you all for your help.

 

fyi rock auto has the coolant tanks for 40.00 and some change the 03 04 are all the same as the 99-02....the coolant tank was a high grade plastic one that looked exactly like the oem....