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03 D2: Red oil light turns on right when I get home everytime

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  #31  
Old 09-29-2019 | 09:59 PM
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Rock Crawling
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Default Oil pressure gauge kit arrived

Alright, the oil pressure gauge kit I ordered has arrived.

Does anyone know why pressure I should be getting and what to look for?

Do I need to wait a few minutes after starting the engine to check the pressure? Do I need to rev it to 3500RPM and check?

I’m guessing this is the pressure switch I’ll remove to connect the gauge.


 
  #32  
Old 09-29-2019 | 10:55 PM
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There are two plugs below the switch you can use if you want, they are a little easier to get to. They are a different thread size, but if you have several adapters they should fit. You should see about 20-25 psi at idle hot, and about 40-45 above 2000 rpm hot. Should be slightly higher cold. Those are not minimums but typical values.
 
  #33  
Old 10-04-2019 | 08:05 PM
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I haven’t had time yet and I cut my hand, so I’m waiting on that too, but I looked and found a pretty oily situation under there. I have the o ring for the pickup pipe and I have the sump pan gasket... I’ve also got new drain plugs/washers and oil filters. Is it likely this issue goes much deeper?



 
  #34  
Old 10-04-2019 | 08:50 PM
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Is it likely this issue goes much deeper?
It looks like your crankshaft seal ( ERR6490G ) is leaking.
If you decide to replace it get a CORTECO Brand seal.



 
  #35  
Old 10-05-2019 | 07:51 PM
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All I can do is applaud the OP. He's willing to ask what he doesn't know and dig into some significant work that he's never done. Well done sir.
 
  #36  
Old 10-05-2019 | 08:03 PM
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Agreed.
 
  #37  
Old 10-09-2019 | 08:19 PM
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How was this solved or are you driving with the oil light on. Just curious
 
  #38  
Old 10-10-2019 | 05:51 PM
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Note: every time I edit a post, all the apostrophes disappear... good times

Thanks guys, I’m inspired by the “turning owners into mechanics” saying. This is a big job for me though. My hand injury is finally OK (enough) to start getting into the pressure test and I got underneath today, but about that...

It looks like the oil pressure switch is pretty tough to get at... Right above the oil filter, below the switch, there’s another bolt and at its right there’s a sort of plug... are these the ones I’d be able to use to test the system’s pressure as well as at the switch?




Note: I’m not exactly sure if this diagram is the Bosch or GEMS engine oil pump. Mine is a 2003, so it’s the Bosch motor.

Luckily, the red oil light doesn’t come on very often and only when I’ve stopped at home, then I shut the engine off, or when taking some steep turns up here in the mountains slowly and letting off the gas completely. Giving it gas turns the light off... I don’t know enough about this to know what that means exactly.

The mess under the car is pretty bad looking, but I guess most oil leaks are like that. Sludgy. It looked like there way oil up higher as well so I’m not sure how far back this problem goes.

I’m also concerned about removing the sump - it’s a lot bigger than I thought and I’m not sure how much needs to be pulled out of the way to get it out so I can clean it and get at the pickup pipe and everything else.

Also, can I use mineral spirits to clean the sump and pickup pipe? That’s what I’ve got laying around here and I’d prefer to use it if possible.

I’m also wondering if cleaning up the whole mess underneath with help identifying the source of the leak. I could clean it all up and add some UV leak detector... I’m a bit afraid of what I’m going to find out here...
 

Last edited by neuropathy; 10-10-2019 at 09:45 PM.
  #39  
Old 10-11-2019 | 04:04 PM
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all Discovery 2's are Bosch. so, you should be good.
 
  #40  
Old 10-11-2019 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by neuropathy
Note: every time I edit a post, all the apostrophes disappear... good times

Thanks guys, I’m inspired by the “turning owners into mechanics” saying. This is a big job for me though. My hand injury is finally OK (enough) to start getting into the pressure test and I got underneath today, but about that...

It looks like the oil pressure switch is pretty tough to get at... Right above the oil filter, below the switch, there’s another bolt and at its right there’s a sort of plug... are these the ones I’d be able to use to test the system’s pressure as well as at the switch?




Note: I’m not exactly sure if this diagram is the Bosch or GEMS engine oil pump. Mine is a 2003, so it’s the Bosch motor.

Luckily, the red oil light doesn’t come on very often and only when I’ve stopped at home, then I shut the engine off, or when taking some steep turns up here in the mountains slowly and letting off the gas completely. Giving it gas turns the light off... I don’t know enough about this to know what that means exactly.

The mess under the car is pretty bad looking, but I guess most oil leaks are like that. Sludgy. It looked like there way oil up higher as well so I’m not sure how far back this problem goes.

I’m also concerned about removing the sump - it’s a lot bigger than I thought and I’m not sure how much needs to be pulled out of the way to get it out so I can clean it and get at the pickup pipe and everything else.

Also, can I use mineral spirits to clean the sump and pickup pipe? That’s what I’ve got laying around here and I’d prefer to use it if possible.

I’m also wondering if cleaning up the whole mess underneath with help identifying the source of the leak. I could clean it all up and add some UV leak detector... I’m a bit afraid of what I’m going to find out here...
You can use any of those plugs for the oil pressure test. The mess is likely due to a plugged valve cover baffle, which causes the front crank seal, rear main seal, and cam sensor to leak. Do the PCV mod and that will take care of most of the leaks. Traditional oven cleaner works very well for a degreaser. You can change the front crank seal by removing one bolt, the front crank bolt. You might need to put a tool in the flex plate to keep it from turning while you break it loose. Once the bolt is off the front pulley will slide off easily with the belt off. Then you can pry out the seal and tap a new one in. You may need a speedy sleeve for the crank pulley, I would recommend ordering that ahead of time. However there is a 60% chance the PCV mod eliminates the leak, or at the very least slows it down substantially.

To remove the pan you will need to remove the crossmember underneath to get to it, and vehicle will need to be on jackstands with the axle at full droop.

Let us know if you have more questions. Good Luck !
 
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