03 disco overheating
#21
06-25-2018, 07:21 PM
Pro Wrench
180F thermostat temps are going to vary depending on the terrain, humidity, outside temp, and it will vary depending on how your D2 is configured. 180F will open faster, but the overall engine temp will only be a few degree's lower vs a 195F thermostat, but every bit helps (normally 5-8F tops). In TX my 180F thermostat temps during the summer range from 188-210F, that includes hills, heavy traffic, stop n go traffic, and the weather conditions here.
Up north your temps could be 5F less, but it just depends.
On the way back from Austin, TX this weekend I took the back roads from La Grange, TX to Houston, TX due to I-10 being a complete nightmare due to construction (almost as bad the evacuation during Hurricane Rita). I went on some beautiful farm to market roads and I was still doing 60-70MPH, but with less traffic/concrete/asphalt my engine temps went from 200F to 188/193F & my air intake temps also went from 125F to 112F.
Thermostat wise yep installing, removing, installing, removing, installing is doing nothing but constantly adding air back into it. If you slap a thermostat on without any coolant in the lower hose = air right at the thermostat and it WILL NOT open due to the thermostat being surrounded by air vs coolant. The coolant isn't going to flow properly with the thermostat closed so the air is just going to sit under the thermostat.
I will gladly test anyone's INOP 180F thermostat in my 500.00 03 D2.
On a side note my Pyrex glass tube I installed on my Kalahari is doing perfectly fine, and I can monitor my coolant condition/flow in seconds.
Up north your temps could be 5F less, but it just depends.
On the way back from Austin, TX this weekend I took the back roads from La Grange, TX to Houston, TX due to I-10 being a complete nightmare due to construction (almost as bad the evacuation during Hurricane Rita). I went on some beautiful farm to market roads and I was still doing 60-70MPH, but with less traffic/concrete/asphalt my engine temps went from 200F to 188/193F & my air intake temps also went from 125F to 112F.
Thermostat wise yep installing, removing, installing, removing, installing is doing nothing but constantly adding air back into it. If you slap a thermostat on without any coolant in the lower hose = air right at the thermostat and it WILL NOT open due to the thermostat being surrounded by air vs coolant. The coolant isn't going to flow properly with the thermostat closed so the air is just going to sit under the thermostat.
I will gladly test anyone's INOP 180F thermostat in my 500.00 03 D2.
On a side note my Pyrex glass tube I installed on my Kalahari is doing perfectly fine, and I can monitor my coolant condition/flow in seconds.
#22
06-25-2018, 08:27 PM
Super Moderator
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shanechevelle (06-25-2018)
#23
06-25-2018, 08:40 PM
Pro Wrench
#24
06-25-2018, 09:00 PM
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shanechevelle (06-25-2018)
#25
06-26-2018, 04:43 PM
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Finally the coolant was up to the bleed screw when I checked while cold, but still running hot. So sick of this I took thermostat out. Still exact problem with the hose from the radiator being warm while the other hoses are blister hot. With the thermostat being out I would think there should be a gradual temperature increase of the hose out of the radiator, but right after the tee its super hot. Guess I'll do what I wanted to 2 weeks ago and get a pump and since I'm there do the clutch too. I'm guessing that the pump is not working well enough to push the coolant up from the bottom of the radiator. With the pump replaced and fan, there's nothing left to do but replace the few lines that have been damaged by this over heating issue. This is my first closed system cooling system, is it common to sit over night and still have pressure, heck the other day I did not run for 4 days and there was still a hiss when I opened the tank. Also the old or new or one off other new to me auto, cap ever blew. So none of the 3 caps ever blew, but I have blown hoses that where fine earlier. Thanks again everyone.
#26
06-26-2018, 05:35 PM
I would start with the rad, what you are describing it typical of a clogged radiator. Water pumps tend to work or not, there is not a lot of middle ground there. it is possible your pump vanes have corroded to the point they do not move water but that is pretty unusual.
You can do a basic test of the rad by draining then running water through it, it should come out the bottom almost as fast as it goes in.
If you run a hose a set volume and fill a large container the you can fit under your Disco and time it. Then put the container underneath you Disco with loser rad hose in or directed to the container and the water hose in the top rad hose. Open the tap the same amount and time the fill. The two time should be with in seconds - if not you may have a rad issue.
You can do a basic test of the rad by draining then running water through it, it should come out the bottom almost as fast as it goes in.
If you run a hose a set volume and fill a large container the you can fit under your Disco and time it. Then put the container underneath you Disco with loser rad hose in or directed to the container and the water hose in the top rad hose. Open the tap the same amount and time the fill. The two time should be with in seconds - if not you may have a rad issue.
#27
06-26-2018, 05:37 PM
Pro Wrench
Finally the coolant was up to the bleed screw when I checked while cold, but still running hot. So sick of this I took thermostat out. Still exact problem with the hose from the radiator being warm while the other hoses are blister hot. With the thermostat being out I would think there should be a gradual temperature increase of the hose out of the radiator, but right after the tee its super hot. Guess I'll do what I wanted to 2 weeks ago and get a pump and since I'm there do the clutch too. I'm guessing that the pump is not working well enough to push the coolant up from the bottom of the radiator. With the pump replaced and fan, there's nothing left to do but replace the few lines that have been damaged by this over heating issue. This is my first closed system cooling system, is it common to sit over night and still have pressure, heck the other day I did not run for 4 days and there was still a hiss when I opened the tank. Also the old or new or one off other new to me auto, cap ever blew. So none of the 3 caps ever blew, but I have blown hoses that where fine earlier. Thanks again everyone.
How long was it running that the lower hose is warm?
We need more details
#28
06-26-2018, 06:10 PM
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Please read all of my posts, please don't think I'm being rude. The radiator is new and I tested the flow. I appreciate all the input but hate to see a long post that didn't need to be posted. As far as the new results, all are about the same. 10-15 min of running will bring temp to 215 on a 70 degree day. While doing the warm up today with thermostat out it was maybe 220 uphill, then turned around and was 210 downhill. Also through out this problem if I idle up or goose it, the temperature will go down a bit. Sitting with RPM 1,500 the temperature will drop a bit, but only 5-10 degrees, even if I run 1,500 for 5min still about the same. I literally can not touch the hoses for more than a second, but I can touch the bottom radiator all day, but right above the now tee without thermostat is too hot to touch. I can use a temperature gun if you would like actual temperatures. No matter what I do I don't think its ever below 210, blasting down the road or idling or what ever and goes up from there in town.
#29
06-26-2018, 06:19 PM
Rock Crawling
Did you ever confirm the fan clutch is working correctly? Early on you say it spins easier when hot. That is the wrong way for it to work, and several posters mentioned that but they were glossed over
Is your a/c on when you're doing these tests? Do the A/C/aux fans come on correctly?
This really seems like either air in the system or poor fan performance
Is your a/c on when you're doing these tests? Do the A/C/aux fans come on correctly?
This really seems like either air in the system or poor fan performance
#30
06-26-2018, 07:55 PM
Super Moderator