03 disco overheating
#1
06-09-2018, 03:17 PM
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03 disco overheating
New to me 03 disco SE with 200,000mi. Right away did some maintenance, new radiator, thermostat and installed coolant temp gauge on the bleeding tee, which I replaced with brass so I could tap. After 15-20 min of idle, temp reads 225F. Going down the road at 65mph about the same. In town gets 235F. I've blown 2 hoses in last day, overcast or raining in the 60sF. Clutch fan free spins to next blade or 2 when cold and maybe spins a little easier when hot. Factory gauge never goes above horizontal. Did coolant flush. I can keep about 5 degrees cooler with heater blasting. No leaks, not loosing coolant. If hose disconnected and I fire up the coolant comes out, so pump is working, not sure if its working as well as it should. Maybe do a hose off flow rate test, 2.64gal/min at 1000rpm, put a hose in a bucket I'm thinking. Cap on the reservoir never blew. Could it be the cap or the pump or the clutch fan? Electric fan does come on, but turns off with engine, even after a hose blew off. Please let me know what you think. Thanks much for your time.
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#2
06-09-2018, 03:37 PM
TReK
I have been posting about my experiences with thermostats lately
I've had 3 bad ones new
get a new thermostat and save yourself a lot of time
if the truck is running 210-230 and your bottom rad hose is cold or warm it's the thermostat
as as far as your temperature you are running 235
i would stop driving it you will damage the engine
I've had 3 bad ones new
get a new thermostat and save yourself a lot of time
if the truck is running 210-230 and your bottom rad hose is cold or warm it's the thermostat
as as far as your temperature you are running 235
i would stop driving it you will damage the engine
#4
06-09-2018, 04:23 PM
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#6
06-10-2018, 12:18 PM
Pro Wrench
It's none of your thermostats and they arent bad.
You guys all need to bleed the system. Air get TRAPPED in certain areas and refuses to come out. Just because you follow the Rave and think it's good is not the answer. The books instructions suck for bleeding.
Park the truck on a hill and squeeze the hoses while it idles. Loosen the bleeder slowly, tighten and repeat.
You send me any "bad" stat and I'll run them on my truck.
You guys all need to bleed the system. Air get TRAPPED in certain areas and refuses to come out. Just because you follow the Rave and think it's good is not the answer. The books instructions suck for bleeding.
Park the truck on a hill and squeeze the hoses while it idles. Loosen the bleeder slowly, tighten and repeat.
You send me any "bad" stat and I'll run them on my truck.
Last edited by shanechevelle; 06-27-2018 at 08:24 AM.
#8
06-10-2018, 07:51 PM
Mudding
I use an air-lift now, but before I had the air-lift, I would fill tank by holding up as high as it would stretch/go, and never had air pocket problems.
I just always monitor my coolant level in disco....It seems to fluctuate no matter what, so always keeping it filled is happiness for motor..
I just always monitor my coolant level in disco....It seems to fluctuate no matter what, so always keeping it filled is happiness for motor..
#9
06-10-2018, 08:22 PM
Pro Wrench
I have yet to have a clogged radiator, bad stat, or a slipped sleeve. I dont just work on only 1 rover either.
How do you know what you need if you dont do it?
There is a science to the whole thing, you obviously missed the boat.
Raising the front end solves the issue, NOT raising the bottle.
Its like an AA meeting in here, first you have to realize you have a problem.
Last edited by shanechevelle; 06-10-2018 at 08:59 PM.
