03 Discovery Transmission Replacement
#1
#2
get ramps.
get a floor jack with wheels.
Watch any youtube.com videos you can on this subject.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...y+transmission
get a floor jack with wheels.
Watch any youtube.com videos you can on this subject.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...y+transmission
#5
Preferably use a 4 post lift if available or raise the truck as high as possible. It's certainly no joke removing the transmission and you will need some help getting it out from under the truck. There is lots to do beforehand to take out the autobox but remember to take copious photos as reminders. Good luck.
The following users liked this post:
threedeer (12-01-2017)
#6
Borrow a small set of torches and heat up the captured nuts on the crossmembers. If you break them off, you've just doubled the amount of time you will spend under the rover. Start spraying down every bolt and nut in sight a few days in advance.
And yes...as you're laying under there...wondering why the hell they have 14 freak'n bolts holding a bell-housing on...just know...you won't be the first.
Brian.
And yes...as you're laying under there...wondering why the hell they have 14 freak'n bolts holding a bell-housing on...just know...you won't be the first.
Brian.
The following users liked this post:
threedeer (12-01-2017)
#7
I did a transmission/transfer case install with all 4 wheels on the ground. I only jacked it up to slide the old stuff out & the new stuff in. It was not a hard job at all. I took my time as I was in no rush & once put back together it went into gear smoothly without a single issue.
My tips:
use some gum or putty in the 13mm socket when removing/installing the torque converter bolts
stab the torque converter into the transmission first vs some people that leave it attached to the flexplate (good luck stabbing it in properly like that....) You do not want to mess up getting the pump inserted fully & possibly ruin the new transmission or have to tear it all back apart again!
replace the transmission mounts even if they look good
use a small amount of RTV between the back of the transmission and transfer case
when installing the transfer case remove the upper gear assembly to make re-installation a snap.
My tips:
use some gum or putty in the 13mm socket when removing/installing the torque converter bolts
stab the torque converter into the transmission first vs some people that leave it attached to the flexplate (good luck stabbing it in properly like that....) You do not want to mess up getting the pump inserted fully & possibly ruin the new transmission or have to tear it all back apart again!
replace the transmission mounts even if they look good
use a small amount of RTV between the back of the transmission and transfer case
when installing the transfer case remove the upper gear assembly to make re-installation a snap.
The following 2 users liked this post by Best4x4:
DiscoBuckeye (06-18-2021),
threedeer (12-01-2017)
#8
There is only one correct way to install torque converter...and that is inserted into the transmission. If you leave it bolted to the flex-plate, you run the risk of damaging the front pump (inside trans)...if you don't get the outer flange notches lined up. Push the torque converter in, as you spin it slowly until you feel it slide onto each splined shaft and notches inside trans. It should go on to the point where you can barely get your fingers between it and the trans bell-housing...and it will be held firmly...no drooping. Then, while installing...make sure you keep the nose of the trans slightly higher...so it doesn't slip off the trans.
Another reason to have a torch set...is the exhaust bolts at the manifolds. Heat the nuts to avoid breaking studs.
Also, when reassembling...start a torque converter bolt, tighten about 3/4 way, then turn engine (by hand at crank bolt) until you can start another, then do same until all bolts are started, then go around again torquing/tightening them down. And yes, you want to use some sort of method of keeping the bolt in the socket until it finds the hole in converter. I use a small piece of shop towel in the socket and push the head of the bolt into that while over socket.
Good luck.
Brian.
Another reason to have a torch set...is the exhaust bolts at the manifolds. Heat the nuts to avoid breaking studs.
Also, when reassembling...start a torque converter bolt, tighten about 3/4 way, then turn engine (by hand at crank bolt) until you can start another, then do same until all bolts are started, then go around again torquing/tightening them down. And yes, you want to use some sort of method of keeping the bolt in the socket until it finds the hole in converter. I use a small piece of shop towel in the socket and push the head of the bolt into that while over socket.
Good luck.
Brian.
The following users liked this post:
threedeer (12-01-2017)
#10
There is only one correct way to install torque converter...and that is inserted into the transmission. If you leave it bolted to the flex-plate, you run the risk of damaging the front pump (inside trans)...if you don't get the outer flange notches lined up. Push the torque converter in, as you spin it slowly until you feel it slide onto each splined shaft and notches inside trans. It should go on to the point where you can barely get your fingers between it and the trans bell-housing...and it will be held firmly...no drooping. Then, while installing...make sure you keep the nose of the trans slightly higher...so it doesn't slip off the trans.
Another reason to have a torch set...is the exhaust bolts at the manifolds. Heat the nuts to avoid breaking studs.
Also, when reassembling...start a torque converter bolt, tighten about 3/4 way, then turn engine (by hand at crank bolt) until you can start another, then do same until all bolts are started, then go around again torquing/tightening them down. And yes, you want to use some sort of method of keeping the bolt in the socket until it finds the hole in converter. I use a small piece of shop towel in the socket and push the head of the bolt into that while over socket.
Good luck.
Brian.
Another reason to have a torch set...is the exhaust bolts at the manifolds. Heat the nuts to avoid breaking studs.
Also, when reassembling...start a torque converter bolt, tighten about 3/4 way, then turn engine (by hand at crank bolt) until you can start another, then do same until all bolts are started, then go around again torquing/tightening them down. And yes, you want to use some sort of method of keeping the bolt in the socket until it finds the hole in converter. I use a small piece of shop towel in the socket and push the head of the bolt into that while over socket.
Good luck.
Brian.
To get one torque converter bolt started I left the bell housing bolts loose enough that I could reach up into the small round inspection hole & rotate the torque converter & using a coffee straw (small cheap & handy lol) align it till it pokes thru the bolt hole. Then slap in a bolt, and then rotate the crank bty hand to align the the rest. Then once they’re all started snug up the bell housing bolts, and finish tightening up the torque conveter bolts.