should i replace the oil pump?

 

Not before you eliminate several other possibilities. Have you checked your oil pressure? Your tick could be related to a fairly long list of things including valves, rocker arm/cap, lifter, and basically anything in between.

 

second willrok13, there are probably about 500 or so pieces in there that can cause a tick noise... dont throw the money at it for an oil pump until you find exactly where the noise is comming from, a job in itself. could be exhaust leak, missfire, valve train, rotating assembly, belt tensioner, exhuast leak, headgaskets, carbon buildup, engine mounts, and of the pumps (power steering, ace, water, oil etc), wires, ign coil, or just some stupid piece of plastic tab stickign out to far somewhere lol

where does it appear to come from, where is it loudest, when does it happen, certain rpm ranges, speeds, temperatures... does it increase in pitch/tone/frequency along with engine speed, ie. is it linear/exponential with rpm or road speed or both, in certain gears, under load, light gas pressure, does it go away under any condition or lesson, etc. what weight oil are you using, miliage, mods, is the noise new, recurring...

 

Have your oil pressure tested cold at idle and 2000 RPMs, then when warm at idle and 2000 RPN's, then get back to us with the 4 sets of numbers.

 

Well my history with discos and engine knocks is one I don't like to brag of.. but there was an updated rocker shaft released by rover years ago, lately the most common place I have found were the knocking noise comes from is the bearings, nextime you change your oil pan gasket remove a rod cap and slide out the bearings. You will find that the I board bearing will be worn. The oil PS I light doesn't come on till 8-9 PS I and they usually operate around 12 PS I at idle. I don't remember of the top of my head the spec at 2000 but anything over 30 is ok. My knowledge comes from being a land rover technician at a land rover dealer. But like the gentlemen stated above, an exhaust leak could be mistaken for a knock

 

at idle cold im in the upper 50's for pressure and 2000 rpm im in the 60's
and when warm at idle it goes down to 12 at 2000 rpm it close to 50 it

 

OK, so now it is time to tear it down and start inspecting/measuring each part, rocker shaft, arms, push rods. lifters and cam to find the problem.

 

Your oil PSI numbers are fine, just drive the thing and enjoy it.
You are going to be chasing a red herring, IF it finally blows up then worry about it, until then just change the oil (NOT using a 5w-or10w-30 motor oil) and go.
If you are that worried about it the only 100% fix is a brand new engine.

 

Ok, here you go, read this post and I will link to the entire thread.

Yep, that's right. Sorry if I never closed this thread out with a nice conclusion! I hate it when people do that...

I had the '04 towed about an hour to the nearest Land Rover dealer, where they performed the block test. The test showed a crack behind the sleeve of the number..... man, I don't remember now. It was the cylinder closest to the firewall on the driver's side. Would that be number 7?

Anyway, the crack was allowing air to get into the cooling system when the block warmed up, which closed the t-stat and caused the over-heating. Thus, the first head-gasket change I had done was useless, because the crack was likely already there.

So, I then had it towed all the way back to my house, which is where it sat while I decided what to do.

Eventually, I decided to buy a new block and rebuild kit from Atlantic British, and pay to have my engine rebuilt around it.

I've got two Discos, a 2000 and a 2004, and I've always noticed that my 2004 (which I believe has a longer stroke than the 2000) sounds more like a diesel- it sounded rattly!

I was hoping a new engine would "cure" this and make it a vehicle that I'd be proud to let a mechanic hear... but alas, it STILL sounds loose and rattly... I'm assuming it's either a peripheral like a belt-driven pump, or the engine just SOUNDS like that.

It sucks, because any mechanic - especially when it's warm and really knocks- would NEVER GUESS I just had a $6,000 engine block installed, or that I take religiously good care of my engine.

TONS of power though, and it hasn't dropped an ounce of coolant in it's 15,000 mile life so far. It used a quart of oil at first (I had to haul a heavy trailer to Colorado from Michigan when I had 1,200 miles on the motor- Hilariously stupid coincidence in timing).

Was it worth it? Do I regret spending $5,500 on a new block and $2,200 to have it installed? No, I don't- I've bounced back financially, and by now I probably would have spent the money on something dumber.

I am in passionate love with my Discos, but I *AM* working hard to get in a position where I'll liquidate my two Discos: My wife wants a 1970s branco project, and I want a 2008 Mercedes G55 AMG (black OR white). I need to make a LOT more money to even be able to clean the tires of a G55, but I will get there... I absolutely must own one of these vehicles.

Some more tips:

1) If you're getting a new block, spend the money and have the valves re-done. I had my heads milled, but I really wish I would have had the valves re-done.

2) Make sure the douche-bags who do your block don't screw up the marriage between the exhaust manifold and the new block. My immaculate 2004 D2 has the deep ear-rattling bassy HUMMMMM of a 1985 Chevy Custom Deluxe after it's had the exhaust cut off below the cab. Okay, it's not that bad, but it's enough to embarrass me when entertaining wealthy colleagues.

3) Even though I read on here that dex-cool is bad for these engines, my trusted rover-only mechanic back in Colorado (Pikes Peak Rovers) said it was a better idea than running green stuff. So, even at just 15,000 miles on the new block, it's already had two kinds of coolant mixed in... So, i'd say choose one and stick with it.

That's all ole' Disco2Fever has to say about getting a new block.
__________________
-
"Friends Don't Let Friends Buy Land Rovers."

2000 White DII w/ 81k miles - $9,100 in repairs.
(MAF Sensor, Stabilizer Bar, Radiator x2, head gaskets, valve job, brakes, rebuilt drive shaft, rear-door sub woofer).
&
2004 White DII w/ 70k miles - $12.2k in repairs and running great ;-)
(Head Gaskets & head-millings, Engine Block, water pump, fan, fan clutch, battery, rebuilt drive-shaft, rear brakes, oil pan gasket, tail gate latch, 1x 2ndary air injection motor, A/C condenser fan).

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...g-still-29102/

In short, there is nothing wrong with your engine, they just sound that way.

 

I have ran into several of these issues. Pretty much if you can live with the ticking noise just live with it. or 2 options. Replace the front cover 50 50 shot or a new block. Ive done about ten engines for ticking noise and the only thing Land Rover engineers could tell me was they were made bad but does not affect performance of the vehicle UNLESS the oil light comes on.