Very happy with the installation of the PEL500110 thermostat from UK Britpart (black / dark grey). So far, 194 deg idle.

 

That's cool mate. I'm waiting to install my 180 degree gray thermostat too.
What app did you use to monitor your temps?

 

It's a free app called "ODB Car Doctor", it's not bad. Don't wait! Super simple install if you are familiar with coolant refilling and pinch clamp removals.

 

Is that and iOS or just android app

 

iOS

 

So I'm seeing different versions of the 180f thermostat. I ordered mine from Atlantic Bristish and have yet to install. Are there any differences?

 

No just different manufactures. Bearmach, allmakes, brittpart, Land Rover, ect

 

I've had two different 180 degree thermostats in my disco and I think it's worth a little searching on the forum and reading others results with the aftermarket thermostats. My first one was an aftermarket version from Atlantic British and while it helped out with temps it didn't hold up but about 8 months.

I just replaced my radiator, installed new hoses, and dropped in a genuine LR 180 thermostat that I sourced from Lucky 8. It was about $80 as I recall which made it more expensive but my temps are a full 5 degrees lower than the first aftermarket one I used.

I can't comment on it's longevity yet but I paid the extra $ because of some reading here on the forum where others had issues with the aftermarket thermostats.

Regardless of which route you go you should do it. The lower temps are a fact and either way you benefit.

 

Thanks, guys. I've already got the AB version and it's ready to go in with the new radiator and switch, but I'm scared to do it with the temps in the 20s here lately.

I've not started the truck in a week or so due to being concerned when the temp was staying at 217F and when I checked the radiator and found it clogged, I've not driven it since (the HG and such were done prior to purchase and I don't feel like doing them myself for a good while) while waiting for parts.

Our garage isn't heated but I might put it in there for a couple days as it does stay above freezing in there before I do the work and it's supposed to get to 40F by next weekend, so I was planning on doing it then. My concern is putting cold hose water (when I do the flush) into the block and risking cracking it.

I guess that begs another question: should I get the engine to temp when I flush, or should I do it cold? The last however many times I've flushed a cooling system in a car, it was in CA, where weather wasn't an issue.

Wow, I just found a negative to leaving Kalifornistan- didn't think that was possible...

 

Edit: Do it while cold, no reason to flush warm coolant.

Honestly flushing the coolant completely is a couple days job. Firstly, drain all coolant by removing the lower radiator hose (warning: this gets VERY messy). Then install the new thermostat, I opted to use new hose clamps. Then remove the expansion tank from the mount, it just pops right off. Take off the bleeder screw near the fan clutch hose (highest point in loop). Fill the reservoir until the system starts reaching max. Lift the reservoir (using your arms) above the highest point in the system (bleeder screw) until coolant starts coming out of the bleeder hole. Did I mention do this on flat ground? Now you have to start the car and run the heater, this will fill up the heater coil with coolant, turn off the car before she gets too hot. Let her cool completely and repeat the filling process if needed. After that you can run her to check the overall temperature, over the next few days every time shes cool you may notice shes sipped a bit more coolant into the system as the air bubbles reach their way to the surface. Top off coolant to the cold level for the next few days.

Basically after you do a re-fill you will have air bubbles and the system won't perform at it's best until they are mostly out of the loop.

Any questions? You shouldn't get temps above 215 with the new t-stat unless there is air in the system or there's something else wrong.