The last guy who did the flush six months ago tells me afterward that he uses clear regular (tap) water on all of his Land Rovers. I was not happy but left. I figured since the t-stat is getting replaced go back to square one- flush and refill with new t-stat. This time I'll do the labor and do it right. Sorry for the confusion.

What's your thoughts on the Peak Flush chemical. It says to drive for 3- 6 hours. I really don't have the need for such a trip and I don't want to run it on idle for an extended time. But I do want to do the best to remove the calcium that probably has been built up with the tap water he used hence flush kit. Not sure I should go the full route of removing the block plugs either unless strongly recommended?

 

And fill with all 50/50; dilute the 50/50 with distilled and you raise the freeze protection point, etc. It is just simpler.

 

I always thought that in the disco 2 it already had 180 stats ??

 

Just carefully look at the way the current t-stat is placed, and look for any mold lines that can help you identify where things are supposed to go. When i installed my 180 motorad t-stat I noticed that both thermostats a molding injection pin holes. (Circles basically). The biggest pain of the job is getting the hose clamps back on correctly, and make sure you do. Also make sure you correctly bleed cooling system of air. It sounds like a the 180 stat will get your temps where you want to be. You should be sitting pretty at the ideal range when installed.

 

Don't waste your time. Use the grey thermo as a paperweight and do the thermo bypass mod with a 180* stant.

 

RMT - glad you made it through the storm. Would you expand on the differences between the 180F grey stat in the original location and the external stat bypass with a 180F stat?

 

Barely made it. Had 2 1/2 feet of ocean in the shop, lost lots of tools, 3 day clean up, ripped a skylight out, lost 2 customers cars, no power for 7 days... ect ect ect...

I tried 2 of those 180* grey thermos, the first one regulated at 201* idle, I figured it was bad, bypassed that car with a 180* stant and the truck idled at 180*. Got another 180* grey thermo, truck idled at 201* bypassed that truck, idled at 180*. I gave up on those things. Maybe I got 2 bad ones in a row? who knows... but they do not regulate at 180*.

I love the thermostat in the block so much that I'm going to see about installing a thermo in the space between the IM and the flange like in a disco 1 - that would rock.... Ill get back to you on that some time this week.

 

I wondered if a machined part could be easily made to allow a stat in the block where that "J" pipe attaches. Or perhaps already exists, like one of those "Mr Gasket" or such "Chevy" thermostat housings. Might have to drill an extra hole in the flange. There is a niche market product.

But some others have posted of lower temps with the grey one, but certainly not what could be obtained with the 180 conventional stat. I like the one in my D1.

 

Yeah, RTM i am interested to see what you come up with! Real sorry about the storm my friend but a, all that stuff can be replaced. Glad you have your life!

 

So I am not understanding the bypass thing with the T-Stat... Are you saying that using the Y type T-Stat is just stupid and you are not going to cool your truck anymore then the Stock beige one? Cause that is what I was just about to order! I mean my temps right now are staying right around 200ish at running and at idle, but a mechanic said that I should change the T-Stat! I am so F'n confused with this D*** vehicle! I Love my Disco, but I am thinking C4 is looking pretty cheap right now! Yes the Explosive C4, not a vehicle!