I just picked up a 1999 D1 GEMS 107k with a known stalling problem. The PO replaced the fuel pump but it did not fix the problem so he wanted it gone. On the drive home it ran great for 25 miles, then stalled on the freeway. Restarted in about 15 minutes then ran great again for 75 miles, then stalled again on the freeway and would not start. Towed it home read out the codes: P1317 (ABS), P0430 (bank 2 cat), P0420 (bank 1 cat), and P0335 (CKP).

After much research here, the CKP seemed the likely culprit so I replaced it, but it still stalls. Sometimes it starts immediately, idles smoothly, and then stumbles a little, or just flat dies. Also dies while going down the road. Usually starts again, but not always. Happens with cold or hot engine.

Fuel pressure at the rail with key on engine off is about 37 psi, about 30 psi when idling. Fuel pressure does not change when it stalls and maintains pressure long after the ignition is off. Fresh tank of 92 octane.

STI (or is it SPI?) plug wires and NGK plugs of unknown age. No signs of arcing in the dark. Cleaned IAC and MAF (perhaps not the best thing to do). Battery reads about 12.5 volts when off and 13.9 at idle. Looked all over for bad wires and vaccuum hoses - nothing obvious. It does have an oil leak that runs down by the CKP.

Because it runs so well between stalls, it seems to me that it's an intermittant spark problem of some sort. Did I get a bad CKP, is the coil pack going bad, ECU shot? I'm at a loss. Any suggestions would be appreciated before I start throwing parts at it.

Thanks,
-Frank

EDIT: Forgot to mention, after the CKP change it threw a P1316 code. I reset that and no new codes after several starts and stalls.

 

I would follow the CPK wiring all the way back and look for rubs. Also check all of the plugs for the harness and put some dielectric grease in them. Sounds like you have checked fuel pressure at the rail when it dies and it is up. I was going to say fuel filter to start...

Have you checked for spark when it dies? Oh, and you can clean the MAF on a D1, if you do it properly. They are a lot more robust than a D2.

 

I checked the CPK wiring and no obvious damage up to where it joins the main harness and the connector was clean and dry. I cleaned the MAF with the correct fluid so it should be OK. I will try putting a timing light on the plug wires when it dies to see if I have spark. If the CPK is cutting out, will I still get a spark?

 

no, but it could be something else altogether.

 

Healthy battery range is 13.4 to 14.4 volts, may not be the main issue but should keep an eye on it.
How about the fuel filter has it been changed, how about the fuel relay getting weak?

 

A new fuel filter is on the need-to-do list and a battery is probably a good idea too (though the voltage may be down from too much cranking and not enough running). Is there a way to test the fuel relay? Pressure seems good even when it stalls. I'm hoping to solve the stalling issue before I invest too much on other things.

I've spent way more time under this thing than in it - I need to switch that around. Reminds me of an XJ6 I had awhile back - good thing it was a beautiful car, since I spent most of my time looking at it sitting in the garage!

 

Not saying for sure that the relay is bad, but they are known to be more common then we might like. Get's hot and shuts down till it cools of.

 

It is either a bad fuel temp sensor or a bad alarm spider.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm

 

You never mentioned a serious TB deep creep or seafoam.. New fuel filter might help too... cant hurt

 

The spider sounds like it might be the problem. One of the threads says it's present in 96-98 Discos, but I assume it's in all D1s (mine is a 99). Looks like I'll be tearing my dash apart tonight.

Thanks Spike!