2002 Disco II with 130,000 miles.
Brand new plugs, wires, cleaned plenum, new air filter, did seafoam induction.

This condition has existed in the truck since the previous owner - he said it always did it and I believe him because I got the truck with a month old battery and starter.
The truck always starts and runs great, but it takes 2 or 3 cranks (turn key to start and hold) to start it. It doesn't matter if I crank it long or short on the first or second unsuccesfull cranks.
I've tried turning key to run to prime the pump and waiting and it doesnt make a difference. Ive tried every combination of crank/feathering throttle/WOT/no throttle to no avail.

Has anyone else experienced this? I couldn't find anything in the searches I've done. The worst part about this is when I'm trying to get laid and I have to explain to my dates that the truck does this because it's British and I'm Irish.
Thanks,
Rob

 

A shot in the dark... Crank position sensor???

 

Doesn't sound like a crank sensor. They tend to turn the truck off after running for bit then you can restart after a time. they get hot and lose their "sense" not sure exactly how it works but when the sensor gets a chance to cool again you can start it right up. Number of attempts is irrelevant and you should always get a cold start even with a failing one. Some one else I'm sure will be able to answer the original problem. Just didn't want you chasing the wrong issue.

Best of luck and don't forget to read through the stickies at the top if you haven't already, a ton of MUST KNOW info is in there vital to keeping your vehicle running well and preventing future issues.

 

1. IMHO it would be worthwhile to know if you are getting spark on cranking attempt #1 and #2. This can be seen by removing a plug wire, attaching a used or spare spark plug, hand it to SWMBO (oops, that's not a good idea before Valentine's day - better just lay the plug and wire on the manifold). Some one cranks truck and you look for sparks.

2. If spark is OK, may want to check fuel pressure with a test gauge. Fitting is rear driver's side corner under top of intake.

 

Sounds like low fuel PSI to me.
Check fuel PSI.

 

Careful taking the cap off the valve. Its the same size as a tire valve cap and is easily fumbled and lost.....I know from experience haha

Autozone will have a tester for rent. You get all of you're money back when you return the tool and make sure the case is complete before you leave, I've left without some parts before and had to go back to exchange.

 

Fuel issue for sure and with your mileage, my money, what little I have, is on a failing fuel pump.
Do you ever get a service engine light, if so what are the fault code numbers?

 

The fuel pump does not pump until you try turning the engine over. That's why key on-off two or three times does nothing to help it. It's taking the pump running to build pressure to crank. The fuel pump has a built in pressure regulator. Make sure you do not have a bad fuel line that is leaking off pressure after you park. If all lines are ok.. replace pump.

 

Well, there is more to the pump run or not run... From the RAVE:

The fuel pump is a 'self priming' wet type pump which is immersed in fuel in the tank. The fuel pump operates at all times when the ignition switch is in position II. If the engine is not started, the ECU will 'time-out' after 2 seconds and de-energise the fuel pump relay to protect the pump. The pump receives a feed from the battery via fuse 10 in the engine compartment fusebox and the fuel pump relay. The relay is energised by the ECM when the ignition switch is moved to position II.

 

A voice of misinformation not to be listened to. Every time the key hits the second position, the ECU has the pump run for apx 3 to 4 seconds to re-prime the fuel rail pressure that might leak down as the vehicle gets older. That sort of priming to verify if the pump is working is valid and known by all mechanics.