Just found out that I need front and rear brake pads and rotors. The shop quoted ~ $300 for new pads and turning the rotors. I checked online and can buy new slotted and drilled rotors and pads for roughly the same price. The question is...when the shop quoted the job, he said the rear cost more because it requires a special tool to compress the calipers that "turns the caliper screw and compresses at the same time". Is this true? If the rear caliper is similar to the front, I'll do the job myself. I just would not want to get it all apart and not be able to complete the job. Any experience is appreciated.

 

Someone is pulling your chain. First, contact Steve at Rover Connection on the web, he will give you the best price on DBA rotors and Kevlar pads.
Have you ever done brakes before. if so, your Rover will be easy, the only some what different tool you will need would be a impact driver with a phillips head on it to remove one large screw from each rotor, other then that it is all standard tools and easy.
Make sure you buy at least 3 pints of brake fluid, I use Vavolines synthetic fluid, it holds up better.
Also, just so you know, you can not resurface Rover rotors, they start out too thin and when being resurfaced the alloy is way to soft and and they don't cut well, Rover will also tell you taht.
If you have any questions get back to me.
Mike

 

Thanks for the info Mike. I have done brakes before a long...long time ago, but don't recall the fluid being expendable. Perhaps I did not do it correctly. Never worked on a Rovers brakes. Can you give me a quick bullet list of the procedure? Thanks,
Roy

 

Roy,
The short version of a Rover brake job, in the case of your D2, both the front and rears change out the same way.
Remove the wheel, remove the 2 bolts that hold the calliper to the mount, remove the large screw that holds the rotor to the hub, pull off the rotor, may need to tap it with a hammer, install the new rotor, install the rotor screw, remove and replace the pads from the caliper, reinstall the caliper and new pads over the rotor and reinstall the 2 caliper bolts. You might want to buy a spray can of sound deadening material from the auto parts store and spray the hell out of the back side of the pads before installing them, this will hjelp prevent brake squeal.
Finish the other 3 wheels and then have someone help you bleed your brakes getting all the old burned fluid out.
You will need to drive the new pads easily for a day or so, so that they will seat in properly and you are done.
In the future, if you drive the truck hard, change the brake fluid every 25,000 miles or so to help keep a firmer brake pedal.
Good luck,
Mike

 

Agree with Mike in that the rear calipers do not need to be turned in. Make sure you have a hand impact driver with a#3 posi-drive bit to remove the rotors. You will also need a robust 12 point 13 MM socket to remove the caliper bracket. No turning of LR rotors!

 

ok time to get my brakes done too on my 00 dii also. great forum!

 

So make sure you watch what you buy for your brake job, how are your rotors, how many miles on your truck??
Mike

 

Mike,
I have everything apart except for where the caliper mounts. The rotor is behind there with a brake dust shield on the back side. any hints as to getting that loose? It looks as though it is held by a couple of 19MM bolts, but I wouldn't want to remove if unnecessary.
thanks,
Roy

 

You are correct, remove both of the bolts and the caliper will lift right off. At that point all you need to do is remove the large phillips screw that holds the rotor to the hub, take the old rotor off, install the new one, replace the screw, change out the pads and you are nearly done. Don't forget to replace your brake fluid at some point, should take at least 3 pints.
Mike

 

Thanks Mike. All done and they work great. I really appreciate your help and this forum is great.
Roy