Good afternoon gentlemen I just bought a 2000 discovery 2 152,000 love it hadn't had it for a week and it overheated on my girlfriend. Lucky for me I told her to always watch the temp gauge and she shut it down before head gaskets blew I think the oil still looks very clean no milkshake. Tried to figure where the problem is coolant was coming out of fill cap no other leaks. let it idle for 10 minutes didn't heat up past normal drove about 1/4 mile up a hill and it started to get hot immediately shut it off and let it cool it was spitting coolant out of reservoir cap everything was hot except the lower part of t-stat and the bottom radiator hose was cold. also about half of the radiator on pass side felt cool to the touch. My first guess would be the t- stat is stuck closed it has dexcool in it. After reading many posts I haven't found anyone with this problem that fixed it replacing the t-stat don't want to throw money away so I would be very grateful for any insight. I have not bled the system for air yet or done a pressure check but the fact that half the radiator isn't working and I have cold hose on the bottom leads me to believe its the radiator or t-stat

 

First of all, quit allowing it to heat up and then shut it off or you will be buying a new engine. Most likely you have a blown head gasket, if you want some help, send me your number and I'll call you with some things to check.

 

Thank you disco mike you seem to be the guy with all the answers I apologize if this is not the proper way to send a number as I am not extremely computer savvy. Anyway my number is (xxx)-xxx-xxxx eastern time any time after 4:00 or 2:00 in Colorado time. could my head gasket be blown and not have any evidence of coolant in my oil. I look forward to hearing from you

 

Where in T.C. are you?

 

theHaz - dude - open forum. Edit you post, x out your phone number and PM Disco Mike you phone number.

 

Ok sorry guys as I said I'm new to the whole forum thing. Got a better chance to look things over looks like the radiator has a small leak on the passenger side as a portion of it is covered with gunk on the outside the inside looks good the fins look fine but the gunk is coming from somewhere. Should have a new t-stat today took the old one out submerged it in a pot of boiling water for a minute and it didn't open up also I bypassed the two small lines that run up to the air intake because there was a small leak in the gasket that holds that little part to the intake didn't seem like it was necessary. I'm going to install new t-stat but if the radiator has a small leak should I not run it? I need to find out where the bleeder valve is and try to get any air out of the system unless its pointless until I can get a new radiator. Thanks for any help Steve in Traverse City Michigan

 

The 2 lines you bypassed go to the throttle body heater. Mine was leaking as well. Before you start replacing parts, get your game plan together. I bought the kit to fix that leak and warping on the throttle body heater for $50 and then saw that the gasket kit I'm going to need anyway for the heads has this in it. If you have a leaky head gasket, a new thermostat will not do the trick alone because it will still stick closed due to pressure buildup from the leak.

There are good tutorials for 2 of your problems here, if you scroll down to cooling: https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=26352

 

Is there any way I can figure out if my heads are blown without going to a mechanic to get a pressure test? The oil still looks and smells good but I have heard problems about combustion gases leaking and causing problems don't know much about this. Does the t-stat open because of built up pressure or is it temperature based or both maybe my boiling water test was pointless. Not ruling out head gaskets just trying to stay possitive

 

Sure, go buy a chemical block tester or rent a compression tester.

 

So if the head gaskets are blown there will be a loss of compression. Would it be almost no compression or would it be a small increment of loss or either based on how bad of a leak it is. What is normal compression amount it is measured in pounds right. Had my old boat motor compression tested all cylinders were about 120 lb is the disco going to be close to that or is it totally different. Not sure about chemical block tester what would be the better option