2000 disco 2 overheating
#21
Ok heres what I did park truck with nose up new t-stat remove bleeder valve remove radiator cap start truck and idle with defrost on hot. fill expasion tank till water starts comming out bleeder valve wait till t-stat opens and defrost get hot. put bleeder valve back top off tank put on radiator cap. My heat never even got warm and the thermastat never opened bottom radiator hose still cold shut it down before ever getting past normal on gauge but heat should have at least been warm is that the right procedure? Heat worked great when I got the truck.
#23
Well I mean on had the heater on high set to the defrost instead of the vents or floor not the other optional defrost button I think is what that is never used it. The blower wasn't on high but I didn't think that would matter. The air comming out was cold and it doesn't feel like theres any circulation in the hoses water pump is spinning and the belts in good shape but I just don't think the t-stat is opening could put it in boiling water? also I crudely made my old t-stat wide open all the time if I put that in and fill the system with a funnel through the bleeder valve would that push all the air out of the bottom half of the system and when water comes out bleeder valve it should have no air although I would have to go back in and put the new t-stat in
#24
Well I mean on had the heater on high set to the defrost instead of the vents or floor not the other optional defrost button I think is what that is never used it. The blower wasn't on high but I didn't think that would matter. The air comming out was cold and it doesn't feel like theres any circulation in the hoses water pump is spinning and the belts in good shape but I just don't think the t-stat is opening could put it in boiling water? also I crudely made my old t-stat wide open all the time if I put that in and fill the system with a funnel through the bleeder valve would that push all the air out of the bottom half of the system and when water comes out bleeder valve it should have no air although I would have to go back in and put the new t-stat in
As you have already probably guessed, you can go through a ton of money, so if you don't have the time, expertise, and necessary tools and shop manual, I recommend getting it to a reputable pro who can accurately diagnose the problem and give you an estimate to repair that you can hold him to.....
#26
Well after receiving a call from disco mike feeling a bit incompetent and frustrated learned the proper way to bleed the system. Heat came back no overheating but all my fiddling has left me with basically straight water is it a good idea to get a coolant flush at a good oil change joint or should I try to vent off some water and mix it back up myself. Thanks for all your help and I'm sure this will not be the last time you hear from me. Ready to discover something besides my garage thanx mike
#27
bleeding the cooling system
I am having similar problems. i just had my head gaskets replaced then i blew a heater hose. replaced them and nothing but over heating. i replaced the top hoses with the bleeder valve and also the expansion tank cap still over heating. i keep hearing that i have air in the line. can someone tell me exactly how i should be filling the coolant to ensure that i have all the air out? i am a novice so please barney style.
#28
check the sticky at the top of the page. I may take you several days to get all of the air out. I drove around for a few days with the heater going and windows down to try to circulate the air out of the heater core. Finally seemed to work. Bleeding the system is easy to do but will likely take you several days to get all of the air worked out.. Best of luck. Phil