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2003 D2 Long Crank and Stalling/Turning off on Cold Start

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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 01:07 PM
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Mudding
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From: Cartersville Georgia
Default 2003 D2 Long Crank and Stalling/Turning off on Cold Start

My project car has been having a strange issue lately with long starts and stalling/turning off on cold starts. I just had the motor rebuilt and initially after reinstalling the truck was not having this issue but it’s getting worse as time goes on. Didn’t know if anybody out there had experienced a similar issue or had some ideas on what to go after. I’ve attached a short YouTube video of the issue. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 02:12 PM
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Try a new cps sensor
 
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 02:19 PM
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Does it run well once it is actually started? Next time, try turning the key to the run position then back off a few times before you try to crank it and see if it starts right up. It sounded like it may be having trouble building fuel pressure and needs a couple of cycles to pressurize the rail. Have you checked the fuel pressure?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by redwhitekat
Try a new cps sensor
I have an extra one I can throw on it, good idea.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Red5
Does it run well once it is actually started? Next time, try turning the key to the run position then back off a few times before you try to crank it and see if it starts right up. It sounded like it may be having trouble building fuel pressure and needs a couple of cycles to pressurize the rail. Have you checked the fuel pressure?
I have not checked the fuel pressure, the long crank is kind of new and I think it’s because it was almost out of gas. I added some and if it still persists I’ll check it. It’s odd to me because if you watch the lights on the dash turn off completely like I’ve turned the key off.
 

Last edited by RossN99; Jun 9, 2020 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Jun 10, 2020 | 11:47 AM
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I'd check fuel pressure. Check pressure while running/ or while cranking and see what it does when you turn it off...should hold pressure afterwards. Your tach is moving while cranking, probably not crank sensor.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2020 | 01:07 PM
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Replaced idle air control valve and the truck started and ran great. I’m thinking that may be it but we’ll see over the next few days.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2020 | 02:44 PM
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This looks more like you're have a electrical cut out - Are you turning the key OFF as soon as it stalls? Your dash is going completely dead, which if it was stalling due to fuel or other running issues, you would still have power through the gauges(dummy lights on, mileage on, gauges still reading, etc.)
 
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Old Jun 11, 2020 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Llamasayswhat
This looks more like you're have a electrical cut out - Are you turning the key OFF as soon as it stalls? Your dash is going completely dead, which if it was stalling due to fuel or other running issues, you would still have power through the gauges(dummy lights on, mileage on, gauges still reading, etc.)
No, it’s doing that itself. The whole cluster goes dead and then comes back when I cycle the key again. So the weird thing is after replacing the idle air control valve it went from shutting off 7+ times to if it does it it only happens once or twice and no more long crank as well. I’m still chasing down everything in the electrical system but everything is coming up normal. I just remembered this truck has a weird buy here pay here like immobilizer installed under the dash and I’m starting to wonder if it’s starting to act up.


 

Last edited by RossN99; Jun 11, 2020 at 05:45 PM.
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