2003 Discovery Knocking!!
#11
04-17-2012, 09:04 PM
I wouldn't drive mine hearing a sound like that. I can take the engine apart my self and cost me nothing more than some time and some new bolts, but if you have to pay a mechanic to do the work, it will cost a lot. I don't see how it would cost thousands and still not find the problem, because you only need to remove the valve covers and rotate the engine to see if you can find the source, if not, you remove the cylinder heads and rotate the engine again to see if you can find the source. Between those two, you're going to find it. If not, you drop the oil pan and look on the underside of the engine block. If it's still not there, the problem isn't inside the engine. Even a mechanic shouldn't charge more then $1500 to do all of that and put it back together (unless maybe the Land Rover dealer, but any mechanic can do it really). It's a pretty easy engine to access, it doesn't have to be lifted out of the car or even rotated.
Rather than drive it until it dies, I would suggest selling it while it's still running. You won't get a lot for it, but you could get a few thousand out of it, probably enough to get a new car at least.
Rather than drive it until it dies, I would suggest selling it while it's still running. You won't get a lot for it, but you could get a few thousand out of it, probably enough to get a new car at least.
The flex plate can get cracks, so you pull the engine apart and dont find anything, so now you have to drop the transmission to check for cracks on the flex plate.
So now you've dumped no less than $2000 into a $6000 truck and it still ticks.
So now do you start throwing parts at it or rebuild it or drive it until it dies?
I agree with getting the oil pressure checked, it will come back good when cold and the hot idle number will be low but within spec.
So what do you do then? Replace the oil pump and front engine cover, thats $1000-1500.
Recheck the numbers, hot idle is better but still makes noise.
He took it to a good Rover tech who see's this kind of thing all day everyday, if he wanted to empty the guys the wallet he would have said "lets start here" and done something, instead he gave the guy his professional opinion and sent him on his way.
Sounds like a good honest professional to me.
#12
04-17-2012, 09:33 PM
But see here is one of the many problems that cannot be detected like that, moving cylinder liners, they typically only make noise once fully warmed up, how do you check for that with the engine half apart?
The flex plate can get cracks, so you pull the engine apart and dont find anything, so now you have to drop the transmission to check for cracks on the flex plate.
So now you've dumped no less than $2000 into a $6000 truck and it still ticks.
So now do you start throwing parts at it or rebuild it or drive it until it dies?
I agree with getting the oil pressure checked, it will come back good when cold and the hot idle number will be low but within spec.
So what do you do then? Replace the oil pump and front engine cover, thats $1000-1500.
Recheck the numbers, hot idle is better but still makes noise.
He took it to a good Rover tech who see's this kind of thing all day everyday, if he wanted to empty the guys the wallet he would have said "lets start here" and done something, instead he gave the guy his professional opinion and sent him on his way.
Sounds like a good honest professional to me.
The flex plate can get cracks, so you pull the engine apart and dont find anything, so now you have to drop the transmission to check for cracks on the flex plate.
So now you've dumped no less than $2000 into a $6000 truck and it still ticks.
So now do you start throwing parts at it or rebuild it or drive it until it dies?
I agree with getting the oil pressure checked, it will come back good when cold and the hot idle number will be low but within spec.
So what do you do then? Replace the oil pump and front engine cover, thats $1000-1500.
Recheck the numbers, hot idle is better but still makes noise.
He took it to a good Rover tech who see's this kind of thing all day everyday, if he wanted to empty the guys the wallet he would have said "lets start here" and done something, instead he gave the guy his professional opinion and sent him on his way.
Sounds like a good honest professional to me.
#1 Air compressor. Attach the ratchet to the bolt you use to rotate the engine and spin the engine.
#2, this is true, a problem from the flex plate can be the problem, but I don't see how anyone would confuse that sound with coming from the engine.
I personally don't see it as sound advise to give to someone. I don't have to worry about hiring a mechanic, so I generally only see it in terms of the cost of parts. If a person came to me with that problem, I would try to do some sort of isolation, even if to only pull out a stethoscope and determine the general location of the sound.
#13
04-17-2012, 09:48 PM
#1 Air compressor. Attach the ratchet to the bolt you use to rotate the engine and spin the engine.
#2, this is true, a problem from the flex plate can be the problem, but I don't see how anyone would confuse that sound with coming from the engine.
I personally don't see it as sound advise to give to someone. I don't have to worry about hiring a mechanic, so I generally only see it in terms of the cost of parts. If a person came to me with that problem, I would try to do some sort of isolation, even if to only pull out a stethoscope and determine the general location of the sound.
#2, this is true, a problem from the flex plate can be the problem, but I don't see how anyone would confuse that sound with coming from the engine.
I personally don't see it as sound advise to give to someone. I don't have to worry about hiring a mechanic, so I generally only see it in terms of the cost of parts. If a person came to me with that problem, I would try to do some sort of isolation, even if to only pull out a stethoscope and determine the general location of the sound.
How do you turn a engine over until it reaches full operating temp with a air compressor?
Granted with no coolant the engine will heat up quick, but I still think you will run out of air before the noise starts.
If all you have is time to invest and it is not your daily driver and you can do at least 90% of the work yourself sure, investigate all you want.
As a primary vehicle a person really cant do anything until something more serious happens, people drive around all the time with engine noises.
There is a guy at work with a engine knock, and I mean bottom end, like a rod knock on his Chrysler, been that way for over a year now.
He doesn't even change the oil, just keeps it full and carries a screw driver so when it does go he can remove the plate and walk away.
I guess my point is engine noises are common on these things and most noises are never cured.
Just do a search on the forum for engine noises, ticks, knocks, etc. Millions of posts, very few answers.
#14
04-17-2012, 10:24 PM
I understand what you're saying. Nothing wrong with it either. I'm just saying as a mechanic, I would not feel right about telling a customer to go ahead and drive a car until it dies without even doing the most rudimentary diagnostic, like pulling out the stethoscope and listening to different parts of the engine for a couple minutes. I wouldn't even charge a regular customer for doing that. I couldn't see charging someone more than $20 for that much and you can narrow down the possible causes.
As a mechanic, there is liability. All you need is to have a customer drive away, and have their car crash or catch fire. Now you're on the hook because you told them to just drive the car. Just hope errors and omissions covers the claim against you.
I also don't subscribe to the idea that they tend to make noise, or that they tend to run hot, so don't worry about it and keep driving it. It it's running hot, I fix it, and it stops running hot. If it's making noise, I fix it, and it doesn't make noise any more. I think mechanics have just gotten stumped, thrown up their hands and tell people to just live with it, because they can't admit they aren't able to figure out the problem.
Oh yeah, you don't really have to get the car to operating temperature, but I have needed to get a non-working engine to temperature, and I just use a torch. Heat up the part you need to be warm, and use an infrared to make sure you stop when you get up to 200 degrees. The V8 runs at 212 and the TD5 runs at 221, so 200 is a good temp. for most purposes (Temp doesn't go above center on the sensor until it reaches 240), and gives enough room for error in case your thermometer is off a little. It is aluminum, so you don't want to do it without knowing what temperature you're actually getting the block up to.
As a mechanic, there is liability. All you need is to have a customer drive away, and have their car crash or catch fire. Now you're on the hook because you told them to just drive the car. Just hope errors and omissions covers the claim against you.
I also don't subscribe to the idea that they tend to make noise, or that they tend to run hot, so don't worry about it and keep driving it. It it's running hot, I fix it, and it stops running hot. If it's making noise, I fix it, and it doesn't make noise any more. I think mechanics have just gotten stumped, thrown up their hands and tell people to just live with it, because they can't admit they aren't able to figure out the problem.
Oh yeah, you don't really have to get the car to operating temperature, but I have needed to get a non-working engine to temperature, and I just use a torch. Heat up the part you need to be warm, and use an infrared to make sure you stop when you get up to 200 degrees. The V8 runs at 212 and the TD5 runs at 221, so 200 is a good temp. for most purposes (Temp doesn't go above center on the sensor until it reaches 240), and gives enough room for error in case your thermometer is off a little. It is aluminum, so you don't want to do it without knowing what temperature you're actually getting the block up to.
#15
04-18-2012, 09:14 PM
I understand what you're saying. Nothing wrong with it either. I'm just saying as a mechanic, I would not feel right about telling a customer to go ahead and drive a car until it dies without even doing the most rudimentary diagnostic, like pulling out the stethoscope and listening to different parts of the engine for a couple minutes. I wouldn't even charge a regular customer for doing that. I couldn't see charging someone more than $20 for that much and you can narrow down the possible causes.
As a mechanic, there is liability. All you need is to have a customer drive away, and have their car crash or catch fire. Now you're on the hook because you told them to just drive the car. Just hope errors and omissions covers the claim against you.
I also don't subscribe to the idea that they tend to make noise, or that they tend to run hot, so don't worry about it and keep driving it. It it's running hot, I fix it, and it stops running hot. If it's making noise, I fix it, and it doesn't make noise any more. I think mechanics have just gotten stumped, thrown up their hands and tell people to just live with it, because they can't admit they aren't able to figure out the problem.
Oh yeah, you don't really have to get the car to operating temperature, but I have needed to get a non-working engine to temperature, and I just use a torch. Heat up the part you need to be warm, and use an infrared to make sure you stop when you get up to 200 degrees. The V8 runs at 212 and the TD5 runs at 221, so 200 is a good temp. for most purposes (Temp doesn't go above center on the sensor until it reaches 240), and gives enough room for error in case your thermometer is off a little. It is aluminum, so you don't want to do it without knowing what temperature you're actually getting the block up to.
As a mechanic, there is liability. All you need is to have a customer drive away, and have their car crash or catch fire. Now you're on the hook because you told them to just drive the car. Just hope errors and omissions covers the claim against you.
I also don't subscribe to the idea that they tend to make noise, or that they tend to run hot, so don't worry about it and keep driving it. It it's running hot, I fix it, and it stops running hot. If it's making noise, I fix it, and it doesn't make noise any more. I think mechanics have just gotten stumped, thrown up their hands and tell people to just live with it, because they can't admit they aren't able to figure out the problem.
Oh yeah, you don't really have to get the car to operating temperature, but I have needed to get a non-working engine to temperature, and I just use a torch. Heat up the part you need to be warm, and use an infrared to make sure you stop when you get up to 200 degrees. The V8 runs at 212 and the TD5 runs at 221, so 200 is a good temp. for most purposes (Temp doesn't go above center on the sensor until it reaches 240), and gives enough room for error in case your thermometer is off a little. It is aluminum, so you don't want to do it without knowing what temperature you're actually getting the block up to.
No worries mate, some very good ideas in there too.
I had never thought about applying heat to the block.
#16
04-18-2012, 09:30 PM
This forum is all about sharing ideas.
#18
04-29-2012, 06:33 PM
mine has been hammering away for about a month now, Im still daily driving it too...at times the knocking is worse, other times its quiet.....
if i pull my boat to the lake the hammering goes away for about a half a day the following day....thinking about towing my boat everywhere i go to save myself the embarrassment of having an 03 Disco with 66k that hammers like a diesel...
I swear there are 2 midgets in my motor with hammers...and they are not happy!
if i pull my boat to the lake the hammering goes away for about a half a day the following day....thinking about towing my boat everywhere i go to save myself the embarrassment of having an 03 Disco with 66k that hammers like a diesel...
I swear there are 2 midgets in my motor with hammers...and they are not happy!
#19
04-29-2012, 06:55 PM
That sounds like slipping cylinder liners.
They get good and hot from the trailer towing and then "stick" in place.
Guys who have given up and drive it like they stole it report the noise goes away like yours does.
There are no real good fixes, one guy bolted his in place.
Others over the years have reported switching grades of fuel makes the noise go away.
One guys truck ticked with premium, and went away with regular for example.
It will make that noise forever and when it does finally grenade it will be catastrophic.
So just drive it and enjoy pretending that you have a diesel.
Buy a TD5 sticker for the cargo door to replace the V8 sticker.
They get good and hot from the trailer towing and then "stick" in place.
Guys who have given up and drive it like they stole it report the noise goes away like yours does.
There are no real good fixes, one guy bolted his in place.
Others over the years have reported switching grades of fuel makes the noise go away.
One guys truck ticked with premium, and went away with regular for example.
It will make that noise forever and when it does finally grenade it will be catastrophic.
So just drive it and enjoy pretending that you have a diesel.
Buy a TD5 sticker for the cargo door to replace the V8 sticker.
Last edited by Spike555; 04-29-2012 at 06:59 PM.
#20
04-29-2012, 06:59 PM
Super Moderator
And take a look at this solution write up https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...ghlight=liners
Wonder at what temperature the ticking begins? 160? 180? 190? 210?
Wonder at what temperature the ticking begins? 160? 180? 190? 210?
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 04-29-2012 at 07:02 PM.