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2004 Disco2 won't start!! HELP

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  #1  
Old 05-23-2015 | 03:28 PM
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Default 2004 Disco2 won't start!! HELP

Folks, i've combed the archives and can't find a fix...

I have just rebuilt my 2004 D2 4.6 Bosch engine (took 1.5 years due to budget), all is back in-place and she turn's over (spins) but is not not starting (firing)...

Things I've checked already:

1. plugs - no spark (either side, multiple plugs)
2. intrusion detection (was on before and beeped when locking but, fixed that and no longer a problem - via the hood being back on and latching it + manual lock/unlock 3 times)
3. battery - old but, using a charger/starter and also jumping off a Toyota Highlander
4. brand new CPS as part of the rebuild, double checked it's installed correct and plugged into the multi-plug ok
5. pulled fuel pump relay out of engine compartment fuse box and replaced with passenger side relay from power seat (i still cannot hear anything from the back of the vehicle when attempting to start engine, nor do i smell fuel - i have NOT yet tested fuel pressure)
6. radio, all other electronics off during start
7. reset the inertia switch (never clicked so, don't believe it was tripped)
8. starting in Neutral - doesn't start/fire

Codes I'm getting right now from el cheapo reader I just got from Advanced Auto Parts (and come back after replacing): P1843 and P1842

I'm purely in the realm of guessing at this point... i don't have a multimeter but if i did, I'm sure i'd test all fuses and such but... all electrics work in car when not trying to start so... really lost..

Lights on dash during start:

1. three amigos + "brake" - i filled some break fluid but suspect i need more on the "brake" light issue.
2. blinking Sport and Manual green gear lights

I am also guessing there's a strong likelihood something, who knows what, is immobilizing (hence the no spark and no fuel smell)....

Also, have a half tank of year old fuel so added water remover (half bottle, full bottle for fuel tank..).


I'd rather NOT have this towed anywhere but, I really am getting to wit's end - after the entire rebuild, now this mystery!

Please, anyone help?
 

Last edited by jasonRedRover; 05-23-2015 at 03:49 PM.
  #2  
Old 05-23-2015 | 07:20 PM
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I have heard that low voltage can cause this, but I have no first hand knowledge. Make absolutely sure you didn't miss any grounds. I think those are some sort of transmission codes, I can't remember. I'm pretty sure these codes usually occur with a no start condition.
I would double check grounds and also make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Try putting it in neutral to start it. There's also a chance that your XYZ switch has developed some internal corrosion while sitting 1.5 years. Then, if that doesn't work, check all the fuses relating to engine control and transmission. It may be well worth your while to pick up a cheap multimeter. Just make sure the meter has ohm and volt readings. Amperage readings are nice to have to, but may or may not be necessary for this problem.
I think those may be the codes you get with limp home mode.
 

Last edited by disc oh no; 05-23-2015 at 08:00 PM.
  #3  
Old 05-23-2015 | 11:41 PM
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Thanks!

How many grounds am I looking for?

I have the engine ground coming off the alternator
I also have a strap coming off the left hand head to the firewall

Those seem quite secure...what others should I check? I think there's one coming off the harness to the body on right hand side as well - also secure.

I've checked some fuses but will check the remainder tomorrow and report back.

Also, reminder - tried starting in neutral, to no avail sadly...
 
  #4  
Old 05-24-2015 | 06:56 AM
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Try looking around the firewall for grounds. I have seen several cases where a car would turn over, but not start. Most of those had no communication with the computer, so not only did they not have spark or fuel, they also had no scan data. In your case, I'm thinking maybe the transmission computer may either have a bad ground.
It's extremely hard to find all of the grounds without an accurate wiring diagram. You can probably get one from mitchelldiy.com but it costs $16.99 per vehicle for 30 days. If you do decide to get the diagrams from mitchell, print them out. All of them, including power and ground distribution diagrams.
You will need a multimeter to test your wiring. One thing I would check for sure, probably before even getting the diagrams (when you get a volt meter), pick an easy to get to sensor like the throttle position sensor, unplug it and make sure, with the key ON, one of those wires has 5volts on it. If you can't find one with 5v your computer has no control over the engine.
 
  #5  
Old 05-24-2015 | 10:29 AM
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I had the odd situation of a low battery, and then with leads from another vehicle it wouldn't start.

I looked at everything, but it was my battery, somehow that was at fault.

Can you bypass the inertia switch, in case it's faulty. Cos it sounds oddly like that.
 
  #6  
Old 05-24-2015 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cappedup
I had the odd situation of a low battery, and then with leads from another vehicle it wouldn't start.

I looked at everything, but it was my battery, somehow that was at fault.

Can you bypass the inertia switch, in case it's faulty. Cos it sounds oddly like that.
Would the inertia switch shut off the spark though? I thought that was just for fuel, but I'm not familiar with Land Rover's specific design.
 
  #7  
Old 05-24-2015 | 12:14 PM
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Ok, checked all fuses in engine compartment and under steering wheel in passenger compartment - all look good and not blown.

Not sure how to bypass inertia switch - can you suggest anything?

Also removed cover from from Crank Position Sensor to check sequence of nut->spacer->CPS and it's in correct sequence.

Also, likely I will get myself a new battery too - the one i have now I had to add water to, charged overnight at low amperage/volts and, after a start attempt, lost much of its charge....

I checked all wires I could find in the engine compartment and all are connected, none are corroded (I live in a quite dry environment in Colorado, USA), all connectors are tight and all grounds are tight.

not sure what i'm looking at under tranny just yet for wires......
 

Last edited by jasonRedRover; 05-24-2015 at 12:19 PM.
  #8  
Old 05-24-2015 | 04:41 PM
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new battery installed, no change...

still limp-home (sport + manual blinking) even before ignition attempt...
 
  #9  
Old 05-24-2015 | 04:55 PM
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Do you have a scanner you can use to clear the codes? I don't know if that will help or if they'll just come right back. I suppose it depends on what the actual problem is.
 
  #10  
Old 05-24-2015 | 04:57 PM
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There are a bunch more fuses under the dash on the driver side too. I think there's more there than on the pass. side, if I remember right.
Do you have a multimeter to test them? That will make things so much easier on you. I hate pulling fuses, especially just to check them.
 


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