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2004 DiscoII Questions.. need help

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Old 03-10-2009, 01:59 AM
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Talking 2004 DiscoII Questions.. need help

I have the 04' DiscoII 4.6, S model, Super super clean without any problems thus far with only 87,000 on it.

Sorry for all these questions...

So I was pulling into traffic and had to stomp on it.. The Check engine light immediately came on. I went straight to Autozone and the computer reading said. Emmisions Leak. he said maybe I loosend some deposits that hit the Sensor. Anyone have this happen? whats the fix?

It had its 80,000 mile overhaul/tune up by LandRover. what do they do on this procedure? Oil Change? Trans Flush? Rear Dif fluid check? what types of service do they usually do?

I am planning on building a safari rack for my disco out of 1inch steel tube to custom design what I want. I was wondering where I could get/find some Clamps for the gutter rails, or is there a simple design that someone could show me to fabricate them?

Also both front windows seem to want to blow up every time I roll them down, the lean formard and make loud noises. Do I need to change the regulators, or is this just common operation??

On the S model I have, which I assume is for "S*^t Model." Am I really missing anything big?? My rims are not the nice ones, I dont have trailer hitch, dont have rear step thing, no self leveling suspension. but most of that can be added and I have the 4.6L . Am I really missing anything serious, like Suspension? Locker types? Engine power? Transmission weak? I assumed most of those component/upgrades broke over the years anyways.

I see that I can easily give my truck a 2in lift with a simple $150.00 kit for the springs and shock relocation. Is this safe? does it work? what size tires could I go with on that lift??

Sometime when I start the Disco and put it in reverse, it makes a pretty solid clunk/bang on the trans. is that Ujoints or Trans??
 
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:58 AM
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going a little in reverse, but in order of importance.

YOur front shaft does not have grease zerks from the factory. Check it and if it has not been re-built, have it done ASAP. FYI, you can drop the front shaft, lock the transfer case and still do light in town driving while you are having the shaft done. Make sure you have it balanced. It may take out a little of the slap, but it is pretty much normal. We all have it..

Check out an OME spring/shock combination. With that many miles, you springs are getting weak, and all you will be doing it making it more wobbly.

S is the base model. No seat heater kinda stuff. These all have the same bones, so no loss in HP etc... I think ACE is the only thing you can't add back on easily. The rear step was for 3rd row seating, but to add the jump seats, you have to cut the floor and add the tie downs for the seats. someone has said it can be done easily, but I have yet to hear of someone actually doing it.

We will need the code number so we can look up the exact description. What you told us just states you have a P04XX or P14XX..... fill in the X's with any number.
 
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:11 PM
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[QUOTE=okdiscoguy;106691]

YOur front shaft does not have grease zerks from the factory. Check it and if it has not been re-built, have it done ASAP. FYI, you can drop the front shaft, lock the transfer case and still do light in town driving while you are having the shaft done. Make sure you have it balanced. It may take out a little of the slap, but it is pretty much normal. We all have it..

What are the zerks, and is that what is causing the clunk?? It shifts fine, but sometimes when backing off and re applying power, I can feel a little clunk there as well..
 
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:51 AM
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[QUOTE=cobbcj7;106801]
Originally Posted by okdiscoguy



What are the zerks, and is that what is causing the clunk?? It shifts fine, but sometimes when backing off and re applying power, I can feel a little clunk there as well..
Zerks are the grease fittings (nipples) that stick out of the u-joint. Without them you can not grease them. The clunk could be that the u-joints are worn out - make a sound due to the slop in the joint.
 
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:12 PM
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the transmissions are great in these, the drive shafts, not so much.. you need to get your shaft rebuilt with gressable U joints, (should only be around $300). if you don't, your looking at turning your transmission into Swiss cheese.
 
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by snowdude
the transmissions are great in these, the drive shafts, not so much.. you need to get your shaft rebuilt with gressable U joints, (should only be around $300). if you don't, your looking at turning your transmission into Swiss cheese.
Yep. It might look something like this if it fails:

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In case you're lost as to what this is, that is a gaping hole in my transmission where the U-Joint failed, allowing the front driveshaft to flail around. "I" didn't let this happen. I bought the truck cheap because it did, LOL!
 
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Old 03-11-2009, 08:42 PM
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might have bad rollers in the window tracks if I understand the problem. They are cheap and the fix is easy. The entire upper part of the window housing unbolts and pulls out. The door panel comes off easy and the glass will slide all the way out. Easy to tint the glass while you are at it.

Hope I was on the right track with your problem. The rollers are plastic and wear out easy.
 
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:20 AM
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Default Will the Land Rover dealer do this?

Will the Land Rover dealer rebuild the U joints and install zerks or will I have to find an independent mechanic to do this?

Thanks
 

Last edited by Syzygy; 03-12-2009 at 07:30 AM.
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Syzygy
Or will I have to find a third party mechanic to replace the U-joints?
It depends on your wrenching ability. I feel comfortable changing U-Joints. Nearly broke my finger doing it the last time, but I still feel comfortable doing it. I guess you could say it's not for beginners, but it's not too awfully difficult.
 
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Syzygy
Will the Land Rover dealer rebuild the U joints and install zerks or will I have to find an independent mechanic to do this?

Thanks
LR dealer won't do it for you. They want to charge you $600 for another stock DS, after which you will have to go back and do it again, and again, and again.

U-Joints are easy, its the center ball that is the pain in the a$$.
 


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