221 running temp
#1
221 running temp
Ok so I know there are threads about this high temp on these things but does anyone else have there Disco running this hot? 02 4.0L Bosch is the year and motor. I’m going to install the in line thermostat to hope for better temps. She runs perfectly fine but just a little concerned with the high temp
#5
A different thermostat will not decrease the running temperature. Will change the time the coolant path changes from bypass to radiator since cold start.
If you want to know how cool the engine can possibly run; block the bypass path (done it a couple of times inserting a golf ball in the hose) and replace the thermostat with a piece of pipe for sure full flow. The great convenience of an in-line thermostat is it will never risk the coolant from entering engine without being cooled first by the radiator. Sediment in the radiator will not be fixed by a lower temperature rating thermostat.
The running temperature depends on ambient temperature, coolant mass flow, air speed, lead foot, climbing rate, rpm, vacuum leaks, brake drag, pulling trailer, weight carried ...
A thermostat is there to prevent the engine from operating too cold, not to operate less hot. (And to please occupants with warm environment sooner; per the manual)
When a thermostat has opened the flow to the radiator and closed bypass path it will not do more; that is it.
The major flaws in a LR is not having a dash thermometer, having a cheap radiator with easily clogging too narrow tubes and not linking the warning chime to a chosen coolant temperature.
If you want to know how cool the engine can possibly run; block the bypass path (done it a couple of times inserting a golf ball in the hose) and replace the thermostat with a piece of pipe for sure full flow. The great convenience of an in-line thermostat is it will never risk the coolant from entering engine without being cooled first by the radiator. Sediment in the radiator will not be fixed by a lower temperature rating thermostat.
The running temperature depends on ambient temperature, coolant mass flow, air speed, lead foot, climbing rate, rpm, vacuum leaks, brake drag, pulling trailer, weight carried ...
A thermostat is there to prevent the engine from operating too cold, not to operate less hot. (And to please occupants with warm environment sooner; per the manual)
When a thermostat has opened the flow to the radiator and closed bypass path it will not do more; that is it.
The major flaws in a LR is not having a dash thermometer, having a cheap radiator with easily clogging too narrow tubes and not linking the warning chime to a chosen coolant temperature.
The following users liked this post:
BADROVER1 (02-03-2023)
#7
A different thermostat will not decrease the running temperature. Will change the time the coolant path changes from bypass to radiator since cold start.
If you want to know how cool the engine can possibly run; block the bypass path (done it a couple of times inserting a golf ball in the hose) and replace the thermostat with a piece of pipe for sure full flow. The great convenience of an in-line thermostat is it will never risk the coolant from entering engine without being cooled first by the radiator. Sediment in the radiator will not be fixed by a lower temperature rating thermostat.
The running temperature depends on ambient temperature, coolant mass flow, air speed, lead foot, climbing rate, rpm, vacuum leaks, brake drag, pulling trailer, weight carried ...
A thermostat is there to prevent the engine from operating too cold, not to operate less hot. (And to please occupants with warm environment sooner; per the manual)
When a thermostat has opened the flow to the radiator and closed bypass path it will not do more; that is it.
The major flaws in a LR is not having a dash thermometer, having a cheap radiator with easily clogging too narrow tubes and not linking the warning chime to a chosen coolant temperature.
If you want to know how cool the engine can possibly run; block the bypass path (done it a couple of times inserting a golf ball in the hose) and replace the thermostat with a piece of pipe for sure full flow. The great convenience of an in-line thermostat is it will never risk the coolant from entering engine without being cooled first by the radiator. Sediment in the radiator will not be fixed by a lower temperature rating thermostat.
The running temperature depends on ambient temperature, coolant mass flow, air speed, lead foot, climbing rate, rpm, vacuum leaks, brake drag, pulling trailer, weight carried ...
A thermostat is there to prevent the engine from operating too cold, not to operate less hot. (And to please occupants with warm environment sooner; per the manual)
When a thermostat has opened the flow to the radiator and closed bypass path it will not do more; that is it.
The major flaws in a LR is not having a dash thermometer, having a cheap radiator with easily clogging too narrow tubes and not linking the warning chime to a chosen coolant temperature.
#8
Almost 100 percent chance the factory style bypass has failed to function correctly and is not shutting off the bypass and opening the full flow from the radiator. The inline kit should take care of you. They typically run about 140 with no thermostat installed. If it runs that hot even idling, then it is definitely the thermostat. If it only runs hot on the highway then it could be the radiator.
Last edited by Extinct; 02-04-2023 at 05:06 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Extinct:
BADROVER1 (02-04-2023),
longtallsally (02-04-2023)
#9
Extinct is the man and the in line kit is sure fire. But I kept mine stock and just did an OEM 180 and new Nissens radiator on my latest D2. On my 4.0 D2s, I did the same and the temp rarely got over 194 on the UG. It could hit 201 or 203 at times idling in 100F ambient temps with both AC units blaring.
I just did a Flowkooler water pump in mine as well and it struggles to get over 188F driving (it is winter, though) and will go to 195 idling.
Depending on your goals and how close you want to watch temps or how close to OEM you want to keep it, the in line kit or a good 180F t stat will get the job done. And you have flushed out the Dexcool as well, yes?
I just did a Flowkooler water pump in mine as well and it struggles to get over 188F driving (it is winter, though) and will go to 195 idling.
Depending on your goals and how close you want to watch temps or how close to OEM you want to keep it, the in line kit or a good 180F t stat will get the job done. And you have flushed out the Dexcool as well, yes?
The following users liked this post:
BADROVER1 (02-04-2023)
#10
A 180F thermostat changes coolant flow path from recirculating on the bypass hose to circulate towards the radiator a couple of minutes sooner than a 190F thermostat.
A 180F thermostat is to not allow the engine to run colder than 180F.
A 180F thermostat does not make the engine to run cooler than a 190F thermostat.
A 180F thermostat does not mean the coolant will be under nor at 180F.
After the thermostat has changed the coolant flow path from bypass to radiator at its rated temperature, the thermostat does nothing. Absolutely nothing, regulates nothing, does not move a bit. Nothing, until hours after the engine is stopped when the coolant temperature returns to below its rated temperature. Very good when you drive in Alaska and nearby.
An any temperature in-line thermostat works without the bypass path; just keeps closed the coolant flow from engine towards radiator until coolant reaches its rated temperature and opens flow. Then it does nothing, absolutely nothing, is open to flow and cannot open more.