Looking at purchasing a Mercedes to Rover engine adapter with "medium" footprint for the torque converter
Was designed in mind for older rovers


That being said what does it take to toss a 3.9 to a more modern 4hp24 transmission? Does the flywheel/flex plate interchange from the 3.9 to 4.6 or would I have to and/or need to sue the old 4hp22 smaller torque converter on the 4hp24?


Thank you in advance

 

Your issue is going to be transmission control. Later tabsmissions are electronic so you need the engine to run on a factory ECU, but the older blocks don't have the bosses for some of the sensors, such as Crank Position Sensor.

 

Ashcroft has me covered in the controller area

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...2z7xu9eRrd2Z0z
My question is mainly to with will the 4hp24 bolt in place of the early non electric 4hp22 found behind a 3.9 and is it a direct fit or does the flywheel/torque converter/ etc need to be swapped out?


My VW swapped first gen 4 runner is completed and running as a daily driver. It's now time to start on a mid 20s mpg around town disco 2 build for the little lady

 

Ah, you're not using a 3.9... just the adapter is made for a 3.9. I read and immediately forgot that.

To answer your question, Ashcroft lists a different part number for RRC/D1 flex plates and P38/D2 flex plates. I'd bet a call or email to them would answer your question in a heartbeat, but if you do please report back. I'm curious as well now.

Edit: would love to see some shots of the VW 4runner. Diesel?

 

Keeping it Rover related

 

I asked Ashcroft about the fitment of the older and newer trans but they gave bo answer other than they don't do anything with adapters, only controllers and the TPS sensor I'll need to add.


Was hoping someone here had helped someone put a 4.6 in their old rangie or similar rig.

 

some pics of the build process.

2005 VW Passat 2.0 TDI engine. Stage 2 tune. R150f transmission. Balance shaft deleted. Intercooler mounted to skid pan. Cheap all pro front bumper and eBay winch. Old man emu rear springs with extended shackles. 2 inch ball joint spacer lift. 2 inch body lift. Hybrid aluminum steel oil pan. 175 hp and 300 ft lbs torque. Approx 23 mpg on the shake down run tank. 4x4 innovations rear tire carrier and bumper. Ktt soft top. Trail gear sliders. New carpet and seat covers. 285 70 17 tires. Diesel conversion specialist adapter plate. Centerforce dual friction clutch, upgraded to 3.4 flywheel and clutch. 3.0 3ve starter. 2.5 inch back mandrel exhaust. Electric fan conversion. Retains ac system. 4 wheel disk brakes with v6 calipers front and el dorado rear. V6 brake booster and Chevy 1 ton master cylinder

Currently 4.10 gears, picking up 4.30 this weekend to swap out in the coming weeks. Also working out the cruise control system bugs.


The plan for the Rover is regear with selectable locker in rear put in a CDL. Hopefully the abs will work if not I already have plans to delete abs and run the speedometer/tachometer off of a universal sensor similar to my 4 runner. I can adjust to any gearing or tire combination.

The early fj80 came in a non abs model so a system can be built around what they offered in a similar sized rig. Chevy one ton masters non abs move much more fluid than 1 inch yotas for a very easy pedal to lock up if one chooses to do so.



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Love the Yota, awesome little build you've got there.

Surprised Ashcroft didn't give you a straight answer on the torque converter bolt pattern... that shouldn't matter whether it's for a swap or not. The 3.9 to 4.6 swap is direct bolt in. Just a matter of swapping cam so you can use the 3.9 timing cover and the distributor runs off of the cam.

SO! That means the 3.9 flex plate will bolt to the 4.6 crank allowing the 4.6 to work in front of the earlier transmission. My inclination is that either torque converter will bolt to either flex plate, but I won't say that with certainty. I really wonder what the difference is between the RRC/D1 flex plate and their P38/D2 flex plate. Unfortunately that doesn't matter for your swap since the swap kit should have a custom flex plate that bolts to the Merc motor and to the Rover torque converter on the flip side.

I wonder if Abran or Paul Grant would know? Abran used to part out lots of Land Rovers, may still do a few, not sure. I am pretty sure Paul Grant still does as well. May be worth shooting one of them a message and just asking about the difference between the two flex plates, and specifically the bolt patter where it bolts to the torque converter.

 

I think there are 3 different size bolt patterns for Rover torque converters. Small medium and large. I was told by the seller this is the medium one but if flex plates if interchange as you say then this is a non issue.

Thank you for the info.

 

@PickleRick just curious what are the legalities of disabling ABS where you are. Here you will get a massive fine and invalidate your insurance, which could leave you open to a pretty hefty lawsuit in the event of accident.

But unless you remove the SLABS computer or delete the sensors the ABS should be fine.