My 3 amigos used to appear on a daily basis. By sneezing, yelling outa my window, or from just starting the engine. In the fall of last year, I changed my front rotors to slotted and drilled, and slipped in akebono pads. Now, they come on once in a blue moon. I don't have a reader, so I don't know what codes are showing. It seems like maybe,(and this is just a guess), that the metallic pads were messing with the system somehow. By braking, you create microscopic metallic dust that can maybe mess with the sensors?? This is purely an amateur observation that someone can relate to.

 

I'm pretty sure dirty sensors can trigger the amigos.

So I think you are right.

Does anyone have a list of all the Amigo triggers? It seems like I checked the RAVE and couldn't find one...

 

Your theory may turn out to be correct, but without an abs code reader, you'll never know. What you've stumbled on is correlation without causation.

 

I believe you are correct in some aspects but the codes tell the whole story, the most common being the 'shuttle valve switch electrical failure'. If you read the ABS codes it normally designates ABS wheel sensor failure and some even nominate which wheel sensor has failed.

In truth, most other vehicles would have been scrap when they are 10 to 15 years old so in reality the 'ole D2 doesn't do too bad. My old Pajero goes on well considering it's coming on 20 now but it doesn't have ABS and don't particularly miss it............. cadence braking is the answer. Ironically, I used to use the D2 ABS as a 'do or die' last minute braking at roundabouts where it would kick in under heavy braking whilst turning in .................. not good for the brake pads or tires.

 

I have a few observations concerning 3 amigos and akebono pads as well but since I have other observations mixed in also I guess I'll start another thread.

 

I like it !! Many interesting factors to consider. All relevant. Personally, my 02D2 has never blown a fuse, or displayed any error codes. I do however, have a rebuilt motor. On the subject of brake pads, I do believe that "metallic dust" in any minute form, is bad for the vehicle. Think metal shavings. And, I cannot relate how the rotor seems harmless. (It's metal). Sometimes I think that a worn ignition tumbler could cause a false reading. My new key is rough on the ignition. I would also think that the viscosity of brake fluid will break down and become thin with years of heat from the engine. Shuttle valves?
Never had them worked on. It will be a process of elimination to find the real cause.

 

I wouldn't get too paranoid about metal dust, just think of the dust, dirt, grit and small metal dust/particals on the average highway from all the cars and trucks when they've been braking. The dust on the average highway will be like carborundum dust which changes to a lapping paste when wet. The ABS sensor and tone ring are sealed from the outside atmosphere although they do get dirty and cruddy. I honestly don't believe brake pads, rotors or calipers come into the 3 Amigos equation. As for brake fluid, it should be changed every couple of years as DOT 4, as is nearly all brake fluid, is hygroscopic and therefore corrodes brake system internals from the master cylinder through the ABS modulator to the brake calipers. It's rare for people to change their brake fluids (many don't understand it's significance and omit it during a service) but it takes up a lot of water and also other debris and as the water heats up and expands and contracts often creating air bubbles when hot, hence spongy brake pedals and inefficient brakes. When the brake system has been flushed through (bled) properly with new brake fluid you realise how bad the brakes have become. IMO there is no point putting super efficient grooved and cross drilled performance rotors and ceramic pads on the braking system when often the caliper crush pressures are the limiting factor and the hydraulics are well below optimum efficiency. I've towed heavy loads (3.5 tons PTAC) at high speeds (80mph) with my D2 and I've always used standard brake pads and rotors and never had fade or braking problems. In fact I've driven it hard like an 'upholstered roller skate' and used the ABS often for last gasp slowing/stopping and never had a moments concern. Anyways, who needs brakes they're for sissies

 

30 minutes ago I would have bet money that the akebono pads were what cured the amigos on my second round with them but, now after reading OffroadFrance's post it brings some new thoughts to the table and I'm not so sure.

Now all I can say for sure is that it was at the time that I changed the pads that the 3 amigos went away. I also bled the crap out of my brake system at the time and probably almost changed all of my brake fluid out I pumped so much through it. There may have been water in the system from condensation, that I hadn't till now even taken into consideration and that also could have been what cured it? I learn something new everyday!
I was also thinking at one time that maybe all of the new brake parts could have stopped the sensors from vibrating that may have been triggering the amigos.

And like Dr. Mondo said above there are more than a few triggers for the 3 amigos.

The first time I had 3 amigos I cleaned and tightened my battery cables and it was gone for a couple of years,

The next time I changed to ECB rotors, akebono pads (and bled/changed the brake fluid) and it was gone again for several years.

The next time I changed the battery and it was gone for about 3 years.

And this time I cleaned and tigtened my battery cables and it is gone...for now...knock on wood!

So I'm sure there are shuttle valve problems on some and alot of other triggers as well and won't argue with the experts on that since they've been fooling with these things alot longer than I have but, in my case all I can say for sure is it was when I did the things listed above that the problem went away.... and not just for days but for years each time.

Now that I've said this it will probably come back tomorrow! These things have a way of letting you know who's boss!

If you fix one thing, don't pick up your tools, something else is about to break.

 

This may be of some interest ref this subject.

http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphi...uid/page2.html

However, don't mix differently rated fluids if possible and don't use silicon based fluids as the system has to be specifically desgned for silicon brake fluids and it will wreck a system designed for glycol based fluids. I can speak from experience using silicon in a race car system.

There is lots of info flying around about brake fluids etc. It doesn't necessarily mean the most expensive is the best it means the best is maximum.minimum heat cycle and percentage water uptake. Never believe what you read on the tin or what others recommend, do your own research.

Interesting articles but I would take issue over the use of silicone fluids in glycol systems.

http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/tec...eral/525b.html

http://www.tbmbrakes.com/silicone_br...al_brake_fluid

http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=83826

This whole subject is a bit of a minefield and often driven by those with a vested product interest. Beware.