So tomorrow morning I'm doing the shuttle valve modification to hopefully get rid of the lights on the dash!
I've changed disc and pads all round the abs sensors all round. So this modification hopefully should work!🙄😎

 

have you pulled the codes?

if so, and you are getting a shuttle valve code then the fix should work.

 

I'm using my Delphi diagnostics it came up with left rear sensor erratic signal, so changed it for another new one and same again. So removed the one from other side and swapped and still said the same. Checked all wiring can't see any brakes.

 

Sigh.

Good luck.

I wrote in your other thread that the wheel speed sensor connector is more likely the problem. You say you can't see any "brakes" in the wiring. Faulty connectors do not show any visible "brakes."

You say the diagnostic code is for the wheel speed sensor. So why are you thinking Option B will solve the problem if no shuttle valve switch electrical failure fault is indicated?

 

I agree Option B is only for when you have ground faults, or shuttle valve switch failures. If you replaced your sensors and are still having sensor type faults = check the connectors they get extremely brittle and once they let moisture in or go open (if the plastic crumbles around the pins they could just come apart basically = no reading from a sensor). IMHO Option B is a good idea to do regardless as it eliminates the internal connector inside the WABCO unit, and it also gets you to repair the brittle wiring which is just a ticking time bomb for the shuttle valve switches themselves.

 

Ok no problems. Then I will need to eliminate the connector and hard wire it.

I was only going with option b as hoping it was a quick and easy fix. Also not knowing alot about the wiring issues of the discovery and alot of people raving about this fix thought why not!

 

A lot of people rave about putting air in your tyres, but that's not going to help if you've got a flat battery.

 

Didn't realise it was a comedy act! And we can all make stupid comments that frankly don't help in the slightest!
but seeing as it was linked to the system and doesn't take long to do Im doing that as well.

 

You've been given good, specific advice from people who know what they're talking about. What you choose to do with that advice is of course your own business. But posting unhelpful and potentially misleading threads for future seekers of information to wade through isn't all that great from a forum point of view.

And reading the threads on wheel sensors would tell you that the problem can also lie with how the sensor is mounted, and it's often easier to simply replace the hub with the sensor already mounted correctly.

 

I agree that there is no downside to doing Option B as a preventive measure, so long as the job isn't botched and problems aren't created where there are none now. Just don't expect this to correct the problem when you have a wheel speed sensor code.

I'm not suggesting you would bitch Option B, so long as you make good solder joints and use heat shrink tubing. But there is always the risk that something can go awry, which is the risk in "fixing" something that is working well as is.

But if you want to address what's causing the problem now, I would first spend my time replacing or splicing past the wheel speed sensor connector.