After nearly a year of deliberation, I'm finally driving a lifted Rover. Pics are below, though they make the lift seem much more subtle than it actually is. Also keep in mind that I had 245/75/16 MTRs in the before pics. These trucks should look like this from the factory.

Its been 3 days since the install, and I can still barely stay out of the garage staring at the Rover...and yes, I still BARELY make it in the garage, like 1" to spare...still need to check if sunroofs will hit.

I'll start with a few questions:

1. My steering seems to have a little more "play" in it...not quite as "tight". Is there anything reasonable I can do to correct this?

2. My tires rub on the inner wheel well at full lock. Can someone point me to instructions to correct the steering stops? Or would it be better to install wheel spacers?

My brother-in-law and I did the install Friday night, started at 8pm and finished at 5:30 am. aka the Manly Midnight Marathon:

1. Front shocks (OME Sport 60024)
2. Rear shocks (OME Sport 60025)
3. Front spings (OME 751)
4. Rear springs (OME 762)
5. Rear 1" spacers (Toddco)
6. Front and rear rotors (Roverguy [Italian])
7. Front and rear pads (EBC Greenstuff)
8. Steering stabilizer (OME)

On Saturday, I had the Goodyear MTRs swapped out for a set of 265/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Authority A/T's (bought on craigslist). That's when the transformation really took shape.

Here are after measurements:

Front driver: 36 3/4"
Front passenger: 37 1/4"
Rear driver: 36 3/4"
Rear passenger: 37 1/8"

So the passenger side is slightly higher, but I didnt notice until I measured....I even put the A spring on the driver in the front, but the B spring in the driver side in the rear.

Today was the 1st day I hit the interstate with it, alignment is still good, and I think my classic driveshaft vibration is actually a little better (yes, it's been rebuilt by Toddco).

Thanks for your help.

(I'm gonna start a seperate thread about brakes)

 

Looks fantastic. Nice work.

 

Well done..........

 

1. My steering seems to have a little more "play" in it...not quite as "tight". Is there anything reasonable I can do to correct this?

MY suggestion is to get offset radius arm bushings, your caster is off with your lift. Then take it to an alignment shop and get it all squared back up

2. My tires rub on the inner wheel well at full lock. Can someone point me to instructions to correct the steering stops? Or would it be better to install wheel spacers?

I personally dont like wheel spacers, but the steering stops are just a bolt with a jam nut located right behind the axle on the hub....Is it hitting one side and not the other?


PS, Your rig looks great

 

man oysterhead, I've got my EBC installed a couple weeks ago and had my 2" OME lift installed 2 days ago. Seems like we are on the same page.

I will post up some shots of my rig too. Stay tuned...

It's funny how when the truck is lifted with big tires, the rear mud flaps look tiny. I am definitely going to try the "floppy" Defender type mud flaps.

 

Looks great...cant wait to do mine...

Excellent job, Chris

 

oh yeah, i should share a few tidbits to help others.

1. You absolutely need a breaker bar for the job. It would be grueling without it. I used a 3/8".
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30396

2. During the week prior, hit the critical bolts with PB blaster to avoid breaking bolts.

3. Speed ratchets in size 13mm (spring retaining plates and front shock towers) and 18mm (shock bolts) really help.

4. The toughest bolts for us were the 19mm star bolts on the calipers.

5. The trickiest part for us was getting the bolts through the bottom of the front spring retainers. Had the play with the jack (little up, little down) to line up the bolts (and avoid STRIPPING them!).

 

As already mentioned, your caster is oof, so is the position of your front tires since the lift. When lifting our trucks, one thing that happens is you axle assembly will shift to the drivers side because our trucks don't come with an adjustable pan hard rod. With out this adjustment, your l/front wheel is pushed our a little and the passenger wheel is pulled in which will cause you to have a different turning radius between a full left turn and right turn.
I would suggest you go on-line to RTE and read up on their adjustable pan hard rod and the corrected radius arms.
I have inclosed a picture of my friends truck that was taken after the rear 3" OME lift was installed and the front was still stock, sure shows what a difference a lift and tires will make.

 

That truck sure looks familiar This reminds me, I need to get it cleaned up and take a few shots as it sits now.

 

looks great but I don't want any steering issues when I lift mine..hmm..maybe I should go 2" suspension and 2" body..no steering issues and I can fit 33s