@ Mike: The front drive shaft has two grease fittings on the U-Joints at either end of the shaft itself, the the third U-Joint (right next to the aft shaft joint) at the output from the transfer case has no grease fitting; the rear driveshaft has a grease fitting on the U-Joint at the case (rear has a rubber guibo and not a U-Joint).

The bleed screw for the cooling system is in a plastic fitting with a 5/8" plastic screw with a "cross" for a flat blade screwdriver (on the assumption it's like BMW's of the same vintage).

We put in just under 4 quarts of tranny fluid, and with the truck up on a lift and running.

The previous owner changed the radiator and water pump less than 3000 miles ago (and only had the truck since December (he had no idea that these trucks require a lot of tinkering and maintenance))

 

@Tee: The wires are 7mm silicon and look new, no dirt or grease on them at all (unlike the valve covers). While I would ultimately probably use Magnicore wires, I hate to throw money away by replacing new parts with "better" parts; much more of an "upgrade when replacing" sort of guy.

Does the transfer case have a cooling loop? and is it part of the same tranny cooling section (bottom 8) of the radiator? (I understand it would have to be separate tubing as the fluids are different)

I sort of figured the ABS thing is something simple as it seams to be an endemic problem with these trucks, and that it happens when you hit a bump.

Thanks for the Throttle Body tip, once I get the engine clean (it's not that dirty, but dirty enough that it makes it hard to see back bu the tunnel) I will be able to see where it's coming from.

 

I forgot to say that when I pulled the air filter it looked like a cat had been using it for a bed, and that the plugs were not that bad, just not the Bosch Platinum's that I changed to.

From reading Mike's previous posts along with the posts of others, I did see that that needing a tune up can cause the "service engine soon" light to come on listing O2 sensors as the cause. I also saw that the codes will not reset themselves, they need to be reset using a scan-tool.

I need to have the car inspected in the next couple of days (10 day temporary inspection running out tomorrow as I registered the car days before picking it up), and in NY you can't pass with a service light regardless of why it's on. SO,...

The question is, should I just get the codes reset and see if they come back when reaching the "ready state" by taking a road trip (trying to avoid getting a ticket in the process, as NY police love to hand out those "$100 donation" tickets); bite the bullet and replace all 4 O2 sensors (on the theory that they have not yet been replaced and are 30k past their expected lifespan); or, try the Seafoam thing (I picked up 2 cans (all they had)) and then clear the codes?

Thanks in advance for your help

 

Trans temp light is common. Just replaced mine. About a 20 min job. The sensor is located on the cooler and you can get to it by removing the right-front tire and removing the plastic covers in the wheel well. Unplug the connector and use a 7/8" wrench and it comes out easily.

Follow the steps for the induction cleaning, clear the codes and see if they come back.

As for the coolant leak, it may be as simple as the throttle body heater plate leaking or major (head gasket). Clean the area up really good and try to find the source.

Eric

 

Well, just drove it this morning, and now the "service engine soon" light is off. I never did add Seafoam, just what I said earlier. This is probably one for DiscoMike, but I thought from other posts that the light was not SUPPOSED to go off by itself after an O2 code, or will it go out by itself if the "O2 code" was due to needing a tune up? Also, Mike why was the number of grease fittings on the axle important?

 

You might want to send me your number. I am concerned you only put 4 quarts in the tranny which tells me it is low on fluid.

 

Help. I recently rebuilt the heads on my disco 2 now I can't start it. I got the following error codes.
P1668*Immobilizer signal - CAN data bus, wiring open circuit.
P1551
IACV closing coil malfunction
Open circuit - closing winding

P1514*Neutral Drive Load Fault
P0560 battery below minimum fault
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit Malfunction

I reset the error codes and stil no start. What am I doing wrong is there something that I missed or did I forget to do something. Help how do I get this thing to kick over. Everything is back together as per spec in rave manual.

Any advise or help. I'm tired of looking at this thing in the garage

 

Why post this on a 3 year old thread????????????????????
Have you reset the inerita switch as well as the alarm?

 

Yes first things I did. I took the battery for a recharge and I'm gonna check again tomorrow

 

Also in the future, start a new thread when you have a completely unrelated issue, especially when the thread id many years old.
Let us know what you find.