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95 D1 wont start

Old Feb 26, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Default 95 D1 wont start

I have a 95 D1 (3.9) 92000 miles, it has been running fine with no problems. My wife went out to start it this morning and it will turn over fine but no start. I have fuel pressure and spark, it doesnt seem like the injectors are actuating. On my powerstroke deisel the cam positioning sensor went bad and had the the same problem. After reading the rave it said the timing would just change if this sensor went bad. Any ideas? I checked all of the obvious things such as: fuses, fuel pressure, spark, battery. Also where is the CPS on this model?
Thanks for any help
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 06:28 PM
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Because you have a distribitor you dont have a crank sensor.
A crank sensor controls spark, a cam sensor controls injector timing.

Unless it is ECU related it must be the cam sensor.
We have this problem quite a bit but nobody ever posts what the repair was.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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Thanks, I will order a cam positioning sensor. I will post the results. Any tricks to determine an ECU problem?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:00 PM
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No not really, it is a pretty simple ECU, you can unhook the battery, then remove the ECU, open it and look for cracks on the circuit board.
Then if there are any you can re-solder them.
It is on the passenger fender.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 09:45 AM
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I read in the rave manual that the cam position sensor will not stop operation. It will only change the timing of the injectors, so I am still looking.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:43 AM
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I forgot about that.
The GEMS engine has default settings on all of the sensors, as long as it has fuel and spark it should run.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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What tells my injectors to fire? If it is my ECU, how much are they and what is involved in the swap?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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First lets reset your inertia switch, black button on the firewall.

Open up your ECU and look for cracked solder joints, re-solder them with a pencil soldering iron or a low heat soldering gun.

It may have water in it to, if so it needs to be aired out.

Otherwise you can get a used ECU for pretty cheap.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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First, Thank you for the help, forums are the best. The inertia switch is good I reset it and checked it with my meter. I have plenty of fuel pressure to the shrader valve on the fuel rail. I am having a hard time checking voltage to the injectors as they fire. I checked spark and that looked good. I noticed my relays are in the passenger footwell and not under the hood. Would the ECU be in the same area?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
No not really, it is a pretty simple ECU, you can unhook the battery, then remove the ECU, open it and look for cracks on the circuit board.
Then if there are any you can re-solder them.
It is on the passenger fender.
.....
 
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